REFUGIO TINQUILCO

Pros: Atmosphere. Hospitality. View from afar. View from up close. View of afar from up close.
Cons: If Don Patricio is away, it helps to know some Spanish.

The road from the tourist-trap town of Pucón begins as pavement, then becomes well-maintained gravel. As I enter Parque Nacional Huerquehue, the road turns to dirt. Finally, after plunging through numerous opaque puddles of uncertain depth, I arrive at ...