What Anheuser-Busch doesn't want you to know
Jun 03 '01
The Bottom Line There's much more to lager than the stuff consumed in mass almost everywhere in the world. The Germans are responsible for the greatest diversity, while many microbrewers are catching on.
This article is split into two sections. Firstly I cover the basic interpretations and true definition of a lager. Then I go on to briefly discuss some of the more famous lager styles.
Lager means different things to different people
The term lager beer is one that carries slightly different interpretations around the world.
In England, lager beer may be considered something of an oxymoron, as lager is traditionally not considered to be beer. Beer usually refers to ales, and if you order a beer in a pub you’ll usually get the house draft pale ale.
In America, on the other hand, someone ordering a beer would most likely be thinking of a lager.
The general interpretation of lager is somewhat oversimplified, and is often synonymous with ‘Pilsner’. As you will see by the end of reading, pilsners are a type of lager, but in no way, the complete definition. It may only be in more sophisticated lager brewing countries such as Germany, where the term is a little better understood.
What is a Lager? It’s not an Ale
The true definition of a lager lays in the method of yeast fermentation. There are basically two types of beer, ales and lagers. Ales contain yeasts that are top-fermenting; lagers contain yeasts that are bottom-fermenting. With no inside knowledge of the brewing industry, I found this very difficult to remember at first, so I simply visualized the bubbles rushing from the bottom of the lager glass, which always reminded me of the yeast working at the bottom.
There are a number of styles that are confusing to the average drinker. Kölsch for example looks like a lager, and is stored like a lager but is actually top-fermenting. You could also take two examples by Samuel Adams, the Winter Lager looks like an ale, and the Summer Ale looks like a lager.
Lager yeasts will produce beers that are characteristically clean, crisp, refreshing, and usually lower in character than an ale. Stuart A.Kallen in his “Idiot’s Guide to Beer” probably puts it best when he categorizes lagers as champagnes and ale as any other kind of wine (and I would also add fortified wine).
The word lager
Lager is a German word that has various translations, but basically means to lay down. In the context of a lager beer, this refers to a maturation or storage period in the brewing procedure. Historically, the Bavarians would cold-store their beer casks in the icy caves of the Alps to protect them in summer.
Lagers are usually stored for between 1 and 2 months although some breweries would argue that 2 weeks is acceptable, and possible through the use of adjuncts such as rice and corn. Quality in a lager requires longer cold-maturation, with some very strong lagers waiting for up to 9 months.
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Common Lager Styles
Pilsner
Pilsner is named after its town of origin in the Czech Republic. This is the classic lager style that is the most imitated in the beer-producing world. When people talk of lager, they’re usually talking of a derivative of this Bohemian style. Pilsner Urquell, translating as original pilsner, was the first of its style in 1842 and should be considered as the benchmark. It’s a light-colored crisp thirst-quenching lager, well-balanced, but noted for its hoppy finish.
Germany makes very good pilsners, with decent versions also available in other Northern European countries.
Classic examples: Pilsner Urquell, Bitburger, Budweiser Budvar, North Coast Scrimshaw Pilsner, Bohemia.
Further Reading: ”Pilsners are a Beer Style for the World” by mrkstvns
http://andaryl.epinions.com/content_1601347716
American Lager
85% of beer sold in North America is American lager, a style loosely based on pilsner. It is the mass consumed style of most countries outside of Europe.
This classification refers to a very pale, lightly hopped, light-bodied and usually over sweetened lager. It is usually brewed with added adjuncts, which speed up the brewing procedure, make for cheaper manufacturing and compromise much in terms of flavor. There are a few variations on this style such as light beer, dry beer, ice beer and malt liquor.
Not all American produced lagers should be considered bad. Samuel Adams brews an excellent lager, and many microbreweries are following suit. I also dropped the Mexican brewed Bohemia into the pilsner category.
Classic examples: You already know them, Bud, Corona, Molson, Dixie, Foster’s, Kirin
Further Reading:” Pilsners are a Beer Style for the World” by mrkstvns (read paragraph on American variations and frauds.)
http://andaryl.epinions.com/content_1601347716
Helles
Helles is a German word, which translates as light-colored, and is the most popular style in Germany. It’s basically a German rival to pilsner, golden, malt-accentuated, caramelly with a lighter hop and lower alcohol content.
Helles is a style not widely available outside of Germany, but can be found in a few brewpubs in the USA. Michael Jackson recommends Zip City, Goose Island, Mickey Finn’s and Hubsch Sudwerks. A classic German example is Augustiner.
Dortmunder Export
Dortmunder originates from, would you guess, Dortmund. It’s pale in color and has more taste and strength than a pilsner but less hops. It’s also fairly dry, firm, and low in carbonation. Beers resembling Dortmunder are also brewed elsewhere in Germany but simply called “Export”, while other Northern Europeans produce a version called “Dort”. I have fond memories of sharing several mini-kegs of DAB (Dortmunder Actien Brauerei) with my student roommates.
Classic Examples: DAB, Gordon Biersch, Sapporo Yebisu
Vienna, Marzen/Oktoberfest
Oktoberfest’s are brewed in March (Marz in German) and usually take on the style of a Vienna beer. Vienna beer is a reddish amber color, toasty, malty with a grainy aftertaste. It’s a style that became extinct but is the fundamental behind the more compromising ambers and reds that are becoming so popular in the USA. Oktoberfest is of course still extremely popular.
Classic examples: Samuel Adams, Spaten, Dos Equis, Gordon Biersch, Negra Modelo.
Further Reading: “From March, to October” by bryan_carey
http://andaryl.epinions.com/content_1595318404
Bock
Bock is a name that has drifted a little from its original title. The beer originated in Einbeck, Germany, and became ein beck, before the Bavarian accent turned this into ein Bock. The name Bock stuck, and irrelevantly translates as ‘goat’ in German. Now you’ll understand if you see a picture of a goat on a beer label.
The German’s who incidentally devised the beer purity law, also defined the style of Bock in law. As a result the beer must be at least 6.7% ABV, and either amber-brown or golden (and nothing in between) in color. They could be called the lager version of a stout, rich in flavor, strong, sweet and malty with a low hop bite. There are some poor imitations and I should note here that Michelob Amber Bock is not even close, bearing much closer resemblance to an Irish Ale.
Classic examples: Aass, Einbecker, Wynkoop, Rogue.
Further Reading: “Why is There a Goat on my Beer Label ?” by bryan_carey
http://andaryl.epinions.com/content_1489739908
Doppelbock
Doppel means double, but a Doppelbock is not a double strength Bock. According to German law they must have an ABV of at least 7%. Most Doppelbocks have the suffix -ator.
Classic examples: Optimator, Celebrator, Paulaner Salvator, Samuel Adams Triple Bock.
Further Reading: “Double Your Pleasure, Double Your Fun” by bryan_carey
http://andaryl.epinions.com/content_1599905924
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A Final Word
So now you know that there’s much more to a lager than the producers of Budweiser, would have you believe. Oversimplified by many in the USA and worldwide, there are many complex styles of lager. You will notice in some beer reviews the phrase: “combines the refreshing qualities of a lager with the character of an ale”.
Germany is the country that has done most to diversify the lager style, so just remember: Don’t ask for a lager or a beer, ask for a Dortmunder or a Helles.
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