The Rhine - River Of Many Faces!
Jul 02 '01
The Bottom Line A romantic journey along the scenic Rhine, Germany's most famous river, is an unforgettable experience. Majestic castles, quaint medieval towns, lush vineyards and steep mountains - a sight to behold!
There are probably enough songs about this fascinating river to fill a song book or two, and even more stories, fairy tales and myths surrounding the Rhine region to arouse anyone's curiosity. A long and turbulent past has left behind a maze of castles, old ruins, monasteries, beautiful churches and small medieval towns.
Traveling on or along the Rhine, especially along its central region from Mainz to Cologne, reveals a scenery hard to imagine. There is castle after castle, built high atop the steep mountains along the river's edge, many of them reconstructed and fully usable, one more beautiful and majestic than the other. No wonder that virtually every travel book gives this area the highest marks and strongly recommends a river cruise, be it a mere day trip or a longer cruise with stops in various places along the way. Either way, you won't regret the experience, provided the sometimes fickle German weather cooperates!
Early settlements along the Rhine River have been traced back to thousands of years B.C., and even the cultivation of wine goes back to the Roman days. Already then, the river was used for shipping merchandise such as wine, grains and stone. In fact, the Rhine valley became known as the 'Koenigstrasse' (Street of Kings). It wasn't long before opportunists set up toll stations along the river, more than 60 in all, making the transport of merchandise expensive if not impossible. At the end of the 30 year war this practice was forbidden (although not heeded), and did not completely stop until the early 1800s.
Wine has been and still remains one of the main staples in this region, especially around the area of Bingen where the River Nahe joins the Rhine. There are wine towns galore, quaint small villages with cobblestone streets and pretty timbered houses (Fachwerkhauser), not to mention the famous vineyards and palaces of 'Johannisberg' and 'Vollrads', home of the world renowned 'Riesling', one of my favorite wines.
Ruedesheim, perhaps one of the most visited towns, has delighted people from all over the world, who come here to stroll along the 'Drosselgasse', where wine tasting is at its best! Who says Germans are stoic, cold and always so serious? Step into a Weinstube (pub) here or in any other little town and you'll find just the opposite. Germans love a good party, they love to sing and it won't be long before someone will grab you by the elbow to 'schunkel' along (swaying from side to side with the music). Germans are really quite fun loving, everything they do is done with intensity, which goes for working AND having fun. They are sincere, and if they like you they will let you know. If not, you will know it quickly as well. No phony pretenses here!
Having spent my teenage years in Bad Godesberg, now annexed to Bonn, Germany's former capital and located along the Rhine, I have seen this river undergo many changes. The industrial boom in the late 50s caused severe pollution, fish died or were not fit to eat and the water supply to many towns and cities was threatened. Years of pollution control and clean-up efforts are finally paying off and the water quality has improved drastically in recent years.
Nevertheless, problems still exist. The Rhine is one of the busiest rivers in the world, both for shipping and for pleasure boat traffic. Sitting along the river bank and watching the steady traffic go by is nothing short of a spectacle. Barge after barge makes its way either up or down the river, not only carrying freight but oftentimes the family of the captain as well. Children can be seen playing on the barges, laundry flutters in the breeze while hanging out to dry and even bicycles and small cars have found a place. Pleasure boats and sleek, stream-lined cruise ships pass at regular intervals, music and laughter spilling from their windows. Occasionally the long row boats of the local Regatta Clubs pass by in a synchronized effort and individual kayaks precariously bounce over the wake of the bigger ships while hugging the shoreline in an effort to stay out of the way. It's a mesmerizing scene and combined with the view of the mountains and the pretty small towns on the opposite river bank, it's something I never tire of.
But Mother Nature is not always kind, and although this might be the picture on a typical summer day, devastating floods or severe droughts can change things drastically. Shipping can be rudely interrupted causing huge losses in an already extremely competitive business, and the tourist industry is affected accordingly.
Travelling by car or train, although not as romantic, can be far more rewarding than taking a cruise, depending on how much time you have. Many of the castles, such as the 'Marksburg' above Braubach, which today houses the German Castle Association, or the 'Burg Maus' now privately owned and where you can attend spectacular demonstrations in falconry during the summer months, or romantic 'Burg Rheinstein', reconstructed in the 1800s, should be visited along with so many others. A castle guide is available almost everywhere, explaining the fascinating history of each one, whether or not it can be visited and directions on how to get there.
Then, or course, there is the Lorelei, a steep cliff, rising almost 400 feet above the river, which at this very point takes a sharp, treacherous and narrow turn. According to folklore, a beautiful maiden used to sit high up on the cliff, singing mournfully and distracting the ship's captain, sending many to their death. Today, a lighted navigational system guides the ships, replacing special pilots which had to be taken on board in earlier years.
Then there are the bigger cities, Mainz, Koblenz, Bonn and Cologne, each worthy of an epinion of its own! Visit fantastic museums, beautiful cathedrals, feast in any of the local restaurants featuring Rheinland cuisine, with hearty dishes such as pickled beef roast with potato dumplings or Reibekuchen, small potato pancakes served with applesauce. And always the delicious rye and pumpernickel bread, found throughout Germany, not to mention the Broetchen, crunchy rolls served for breakfast with cold cuts, cheeses and jam. Oh my!
My recommendation is to start in Mainz, travel along the Rhine to Koblenz, take a sharp left and continue your travels along the Moselle River. The castles here are just as majestic, the vineyards even prettier and the wine just as good, the towns are even quainter, and the river more lovely around each hairpin turn. It's much more peaceful here with considerably less traffic than on and along the mighty Rhine! Both should be experienced, then judge for yourself! I love them both, I just love the Moselle a little bit better.
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Member: Claudia Testa
Location: Charles Town, West Virginia
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About Me:
Travel fever is chronic. I hope no one finds a cure!
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