Schloss Linderhof - A King's Fantasy
Jul 18 '01
The Bottom Line A visit to Schloss Linderhof, the Palace of 'Mad King Ludwig II' is a perfect day trip from Munich, Oberammergau or Garmisch. Don't miss it!
Traveling along the scenic back roads south of Munich, near Oberammergau and the small town of Ettal, make sure you keep a sharp look-out for the signs directing you to 'Schloss Linderhof', a splendid and most unusual Palace, telling the story of Bavaria's 'Mad King Ludwig II'.
Linderhof, built 1869 to 1879 and one of Ludwig's own creations, perhaps tells more about this troubled King than any of his others, like the fairy-tale Neuschwanstein Castle, or the Palace of Herrenchiemsee, modeled after the magnificent Versailles in France.
Ludwig II spent most of his time here at Linderhof which was built on the grounds of his father's hunting lodge in the pretty Graswang Valley, with the snow capped Alps not far in the distance.
Schloss Linderhof, one of Bavaria's top attractions, draws thousands of tourists to its remote location, to marvel not only at the Palace itself, but also at the fabulous grounds and the many other structures built here by Ludwig. Although the 2 story Rococco style building is one of the King's most modest Palaces, the interior reveals anything but modesty, certainly not one of Ludwig's attributes.
A tour of the interior is a must, English speaking tours are available, and at a cost of about $6 a real bargain! I've had the opportunity to visit many castles and palaces throughout Europe, but none quite compare to what you find here! Sure, some are more impressive and beautiful, but this one is just plain overwhelming. You'll be hard pressed to find a square inch anywhere which isn't bronzed, marbled, decorated with gilded wood carvings, covered with gold panels and mirrors, painted with frescoes, or clad with rich tapestries, gold fixtures and bronze statues. Even the draperies are gold embroidered, most of thick velvet and silk. And one of the carpets (in the Mirror Room) is made totally of ostrich plumes!
Each and every room is worthy of an epinion of its own, it's virtually impossible to sum up the opulent decor displayed here. Ludwig's bedroom, the largest room of all, has a beautiful 'heaven motif' frescoed ceiling and his bed, covered in dark blue velvet, sits in an alcove protected by a carved gilded railing. It was customary in those days to meet with guests and advisors in the bed chamber, and Ludwig was known to conduct some of these meetings only clad in his birthday suit! Hard to imagine...
The Eastern and Western Tapestry Rooms are impressive as well, both featuring marvelous canvas paintings, door casings and mantels made of black marble, incredible inlaid floors, and even life size and delicately painted porcelain peacocks on carved gilded pedestals.
Equally impressive is the Dining Room with white and gold carved paneling referring to the origin of the food groups, gardening, agriculture, hunting and fishing. The marble topped table is engineered to disappear into the floor at the mere push of a button, to insure complete privacy from the servants.
No matter where you look, your eye is captured by yet another incredible scene, by beautiful paintings and sculptures from famous artists, even a vase given to Ludwig by Napoleon.
It's apparent that Ludwig was heavily influenced by Louis XIV, his visit to Versailles in 1867 was the foundation for many of the plans laid out here, although the exterior of the Palace bears no resemblance to Versailles.
Unlike the Neuschwanstein castle which is perched high up on the crest of a hill, Linderhof is surrounded by 125 acres of gardens and woodlands. The formal gardens are laid out symmetrically into what is referred to as 'Parterre Gardens. The most spectacular is the Water Parterre in front of the palace, with a fountain rising over 100 feet in the air. There are beautifully terraced gardens, most notably the one behind the Palace, where 30 wide marble steps meet Neptune's fountain. Quite beautiful!
It's easy to loose track of time as you stroll through these magnificent gardens and woods. The Venus Grotto is not to be missed, a huge artificially constructed cave to resemble the Blue Grotto on the Island of Capri. Complete with stalagmites and stalactites, an underground lake and a waterfall, this very real looking hide-away fulfilled Ludwig's every dream. This is where he satisfied his obsession with Richard Wagner's plays, the ideal setting for one of his favorites 'Tannhauser'. Performances were held here often, sometimes just for the King himself! Originally the cave's lighting was achieved by rotating light discs which today have been replaced by spot lights. A gilded boat in the shape of a huge shell floats on the water and the background is an enormous painting (on rock) of Tannhauser's Venus scene.
Another interesting structure is the Moorish Kiosk, a domed building Ludwig brought here from Bohemia. The exotic interior suited Ludwig, who came here often to smoke and fantasize, envisaging himself as an Oriental Prince!
If time allows, walk to the Hunting Lodge 'Hundings's Hut', a reproduction of the original building which was destroyed by fire. Again, Wagner's influence can be seen here, with the interior resembling the set for the first act of 'Walkuere'.
After a long day, you can stop by the 'Biergarten', a small restaurant located on the way back to the parking lot. You'll need a beer or two to come to grips with the events of the day and all you saw, pondering how one man could have spent such fortunes, not just to project an image, but mostly to nurture his insatiable fantasies.
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Member: Claudia Testa
Location: Charles Town, West Virginia
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Travel fever is chronic. I hope no one finds a cure!
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