"OLE" THE MATADOR BAR, CARTAGENA COLOMBIA
Aug 01 '01 (Updated May 09 '05)
The Bottom Line I'm the one sitting at the rear table, with my back to the wall.
Cartagena was originally Spain's chief fortress in the new world. Anyone who has visited this fascinating Caribbean seaport city and seen the numerous forts and massive wall can attest to this. In the north west corner of Centro, the original walled city, is an ancient fortification, now put to a modern use. Las Boveidas is a series of twenty three chambers built into the main wall. Each is a long and narrow room with curving ceilings. They were originally used as barracks and storage rooms for munitions and other supplies.
Now they are a series of upscale shops that serve the needs of the thousands of tourists that visit Cartagena regularly. That is at least twenty two of them are shops, the twenty third one is something altogether different. It is a bar, perfect for taking a break from shopping, or the strong Colombian midday sun, or both.
To be honest I don't know the real name of this bar. I honestly don't think it even has one. For me and everyone else I know who is aware of this place, it is simply the Matador Bar. The reason for this name is evident the minute you step through the door.
The entire place is a living testament to bull fighting. The walls are covered with photos of bull fighters, mainly ancient black and white faded prints. Interspersed with them are posters, detailing some of the most famous of this rare bread of men. Naturally there are a couple of mounted bulls heads as well staring down at the small wooden tables. Finally there are the beautifully coloured capes, spread out to view, on the rounded ceilings.
This tribute to the profession of the Matador, doesn't end with just the inanimate decorations and furnishings. The owner, bartender is a retired Matador himself. A veteran of several brushes with death in the arena, he is more than willing to share his experiences over a glass or two when business is slow. If you're lucky, or interested, and his wife isn't looking, she frowns on him showing off, he'll even lift his shirt and show you his scars. Souvenirs of the ring, when the bull for once got the better of him. One look and it becomes obvious that bar tending is a more sedate occupation.
I've been here several times and make it a point to drop in for a drink at least once every time I'm in Cartagena. The place is never crowded, some regulars, locals usually and the occasional tourist, who wanders in out of curiosity while shopping next door are the main clientele. It's a great place to escape the sun and humidity of the city.
It's cool and dark inside, and the ancient ceiling fans do keep the heat at bay, as does a cold beer or glass of rum. My only complaint is that the place is never open during the evenings, only during the day. Then again this is Latin America and even old retired Matadors have better things to do in the night then tell stories to touristas. There are plenty of other bars in Cartagena and plenty of pretty girls to impress with tales of daring, and if they're lucky a quick peek.
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