THE PRINCESS AND THE FROG, EL VALLE PANAMA
Aug 11 '02 (Updated May 09 '05)
The Bottom Line Panama is more than just a canal.
She was a beautiful princess form a royal household. He was a brave and handsome warrior from a far off land. Both were young and as often the case in such tales they immediately fell deeply in love. However it was a love doomed from the start.
He was a Spanish Conquistador, part of the army that was trying to bring the land that would someday become Panama under the rule of the King in Madrid. She was the daughter of a local Indian chief who was fighting this invasion of his homeland. Knowing that it could never be, she took her own life. Legend has it she is merely sleeping in the hills and will someday awake.
Only 96 kilometres or a mere two hour drive from Panama City is the scenic town of El Valle. One crosses the bridge of the Americas over the canal and head north and west along the Inter American Highway to the turnoff at San Carlos. Here the road heads up into the mountains past an ever changing scenery that is as far removed from that on the coastal plain as it is spectacular. Finally the road dips into a large circular valley and you are there.
The bowl shaped valley from which the town gets its name from was once a volcano. The mineral rich soil and the slightly cooler climate, you are 600 metres above sea level here, ensured that the area main activity that developed was agriculture. Every Sunday the local farmer's market in the centre of town is overflowing with fresh produce.
Tourism though is now challenging farming as the regions chief source of income and employment. The main street of El Valle is full of shops and services that cater exclusively to the needs of the visitors. From beautifully made local handicrafts to the cheap and tacky souvenirs almost everything is on offer here. Even some of the stalls in the market offer handicrafts rather than fresh fruits and vegetables.
There are a couple of small hotels and plenty of restaurants from high end to simple snack bars and food stalls. There is no bank but there is an ATM.
Two of the attractions that draw visitors here are located just outside the town. The first of these is El Nispero, a plant nursery, botanical garden, and zoo.
Established originally as a private collection it is now open to the public. The place is open daily from 7:00 am to 5:00 pm, and admission is $2.00 US. The collection of local flora is breathtaking for lack of a better word. Beyond this are the birds and animals in the hundreds. Almost everything indigenous to Panama can be found here, and then some. The collection also holds several species from other parts of the world including as far off as Australia.
One of the most visited animals are the famous golden frogs native to El Valle. You would think that an animal that is bright golden yellow with black spots would be easy to spot against the green rain forest, but think again. The colours though make for a perfect natural camouflage.
That and the fact that this particular amphibian is barely an inch long make them rather hard to find especially if they don't want to be. The Golden Frog is also poisonous. Fortunately the ones on display here are safely encased behind mesh screens. The mesh is small enough to ensure that the frogs stay in their new home.
The other main attraction around El Valle is El Chorro Macho. El Chorro Macho is a waterfall located a few minutes drive from the town. There are two ways o explore this 35 metre waterfall. Guided tours of the jungle trails at the base are available for $1:00 US. The trails weave through the rain forest, over a couple of suspension bridges that offer a great view of the falls.
For the more adventurous there is also a canopy tour available. There are four platforms connected by cables that one slides across on a pulley system. One of the longest traverses takes one across the very base of the waterfall. The canopy tour costs $40.00 US for all four traverses or one can opt for a single traverse trial for only $10.00.
Whatever way one chooses to explore El Chorro Macho there is a reward at the end for your efforts. Downstream from the waterfall is a small swimming hole. Here one can take a refreshing dip or just dangle your feet in the cool waters.
The Princess mentioned at the very beginning is a very real resident of El Valle even today. As one drives towards the valley take a look at the mountains on the horizon. The shape of them actually resembles a young woman in repose complete with her long black hair trailing down.
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