ROCK OF DEFIANCE: CORREGIDOR ISLAND, MANILA BAY
Jul 15 '04 (Updated Jul 16 '04)
The Bottom Line Well worth the visit.
On May 6, 1942, General Jonathan Wainwright faced with the fact that further resistance was pointless and to save the lives of the more than 13,000 starving, tired men under his command agreed to the terms of surrender presented by the invading Japanese forces and armed resistance by US and Filipino forces on the island of Corregidor ceased. Soon after Wainwright and his men joined other US and Filipino troops in captivity.
The battle for Corregidor had commenced with the first Japanese attacks on the Philippines soon after the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941. The first air raid against the island occurred on December 29, 1941 and from then until its capitulation, there were daily air raids and/or artillery attacks. The ferocity of the assault increased after the surrender of allied forces on the nearby Bataan Peninsula on April 9, 1942, culminating in a landing by Japanese troops on the island on May 5.
Almost three years after the Stars and Stripes was lowered from the flag pole on the Topside Parade Square it was raised again. On January 22, 1945, US forces made a daring amphibious and airborne assault on the island recapturing it in a quick and bloody battle.
When the Spanish first arrived in the Philippines, they quickly noticed the importance of Manila Bay, one of the largest natural harbours in all of Asia. However aside from placing a couple of cannons and later constructing a lighthouse they ignored the tadpole-shaped island at the entrance to the bay.
When the Americans replaced the Spanish as colonial masters of the islands in the 19th century, they quickly realized the strategic importance of Corregidor. A long term plan to fortify the island as a part o the overall defensive plans for the Philippines was developed starting in 1902. One of those who conducted the initial surveys of the island in was a newly commissioned Engineer officer named Douglas MacArthur on his first positing to the Philippines.
Most of the defenses were constructed in the 1930's most likely in response to the increasing threat of Japanese militarism in the region. By the time the US entered the Second World War in December 1941, Corregidor was a literal fortress. There were twenty -three artillery positions or batteries with fifty-six coastal guns and mortars of various sizes in concrete emplacements throughout the island. These were supported by seventy-six anti aircraft guns and hundreds of smaller weapons including machine guns sited to cover all possible landing spots.
There was a seaplane base, and airfield and a hospital. In addition a small city including barracks, theatres, shops and even a streetcar system had been built to support the 13,000 man garrison of American and Filipino soldiers and sailors.
These defenses would be tested in the opening months of the war. The fact that it took the Japanese forces five months to force the surrender of the island it has been argued delayed their plans for advancement and conquest elsewhere in the region as the troops were not immediately available.
The Japanese defenders of the island in 1945 were no less fierce in their defense against the returning Americans. The island was subjected to months of Naval and Air bombardment that literally stripped it of all its vegetation. Following this was an amphibious and airborne assault to recapture the island. Of the estimated 7,000 Japanese soldiers defending Corregidor, only twenty-one most of them wounded were taken prisoner.
After the Philippines were granted full independence in 1947, the island was turned over to the new Government. It was used as a military establishment initially, but was eventually turned into a national park. This included a reforestation project initiated by former first lady Imelda Marcos.
Visiting Corregidor is both easy and difficult. There is normally only one ferry trip a day from Manila. This leaves from a terminal behind Manila Yacht Club at 8:00 a.m. and returns about 4:00. The ferry trip takes about one and a half hours each way. The ferry is comfortable and has a snack bar on board. Videos on Corregidor, MacArthur and WWII are played on both legs to provide some background.
I'd suggest booking a couple of days in advance as the trip often sells out. However this appears to be because hotels etc. book blocks of seats in advance and sometimes they're not used. One can then show up at the dock and get a stand by seat. In addition if they say that it is sold out, that usually means the inside seats on the vessel. There are about 20 more outside seats which for some reason they don't include these in the "sold out numbers."
The trip/tour costs 850 Pesos plus another 150 pesos for the Malinta tunnel Tour, which is worth it. There is an additional cost for either a sit down or buffet lunch at the Corregidor Hotel. To be honest it's not worth the price. The lunch stop is usually 45 minutes and there is time and space at the hotel grounds to enjoy a picnic lunch brought with you.
Due to the size of Corregidor and the location of the various sites, the five hour-guided tour is probably the best way to see the island unless you're staying overnight at the hotel. Open trolleys move you around the various parts of the place, and the main monuments, barracks, gun emplacements etc. In fact trying to walk and do it on your own would be impossible before the ferry sails for Manila.
Trolleys are done by language, English, Korean etc., and in theory you are assigned to a specific one with your ticket. Most ignore this and jump on the first one with the correct language sign. However I would suggest you choose your guide carefully to ensure the best experience.
Our guide was an older gentleman who has been there for years and was a font of knowledge and interesting and amusing trivia on the various sites around the island. In many ways he enhanced our visit. I compared notes with a group who were in the trolley behind us where the younger new guide seemed to be reading from a prepared script and was more concerned with people keeping their arms inside the trolley while it was moving than explaining what everyone was seeing.
A camera, and of course plenty of film, or digital memory cards are of course a must. There is just so much to see here. I myself went through six rolls of film, and to be honest I didn't capture everything I wanted to. Film or memory cards are limited in selection, and pricey in the gift shops on the island. There are also individuals who make a living by taking your picture at some of the various monuments during the morning and then try and sell them to you in the afternoon for 100 Pesos.
The tour starts near the dock where MacArthur left Corregidor for Australia, and then covers the lower part of the island, commonly known as "Bottomside." One of the highlights is the recently opened monument to the Japanese who fell here. On a cliff side painted and restored artillery pieces flank a simple shrine to their memory.
Other sites on this part of the tour include Navy Beach and the Filipino Heroes Monument. Eventually the tour ends up at the Malinta tunnel in the centre of the island.
The Malinta Tunnel, constructed between 1922 and 1932, was MacArthur's old wartime HQ, and also held the hospital. It has been partially restored and contains an audio visual or Light and sound show, explaining the siege of Corregidor.
The show covers the initial Japanese siege of the island with vignettes covering MacArthur and Philippines Presidents Quezon arrival and later departure and the their dramatic speeches. The return of allied forces is also covered. It is a bit staged, and obvious propoganda but still quite stirring especially the finale.
It's well worth the 150 Peso entry fee and runs about 40 minutes.
Parts of the tunnel have yet to be restored and the damage caused in 1942 and 1945 is still evident.
Following the Malinta Tunnel the tour breaks for lunch at the Corregidor Hotel, the old Officers Mess.
In addition to the restaurant and picnic area, the hotel has a bar and gift shop with T-shirts, books etc. There is another gift shop at the Spanish lighthouse at the highest point of the island and the last stop on the tour. Prices in the Corregidor Hotel and bar are prohibitive compared to Manila.
After lunch the tour moves to the major gun emplacements, First up is Battery Way with it's four 12 inch Mortars. Following this is Battery Grubbs with its "disappearing guns," and Battery Hearn with it's massive 12 inch gun made famous by the wartime photos taken of victorious Japanese soldiers posing on it.
One notices that despite their years and the damage done to them the massive artillery pieces still seem relatively well maintained. Almost as if they could still be used. Our guide advises us that local students volunteer to clean and paint them on a regular basis.
In stark contrast the various concrete barracks and other buildings including "mile long barracks," which as its name implies is almost a mile in length, remain bombed out skeletons overgrown with local vegetation.
The tour culminates at "Topside" the highest part on the island. Here one can see the Parade Square that US Paratroopers landed on in 1945, the remains of the old movie theatre, Gone With the Wind was Playing on December 7, 1941, the Pacific Peace Memorial, and a small museum full of artifacts including the surrender documents signed by General Wainwright in 1942.
The last spot visited on the tour on the way back to the ferry dock is the Invasion beach used by both Japanese and later American forces. Visitors are invited to take a small stone or rock from the beach as a memento before the ferry departs for Manila.
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