THE SILK BARON AND SPY : JIM THOMPSON'S HOUSE, BANGKOK
Jul 29 '04 (Updated May 09 '05)
The Bottom Line An excellent little break from the hustle and bustle of downtown Bangkok, and a small glimpse into a fascinating character.
Bangkok is a modern bustling city. Like most modern cities it often appears to be an endless sea of massive concrete, steel and glass towers, separated by endless miles of highways, sky ways and rail lines. In the midst of this urban jungle though there is a small oasis of natural beauty. On a small plot of land on the banks of theSaen Saeb canal is Jim Thompson’s House, the home of Thailand’s most famous Farang or foreigner.
Jim Thompson was an American who arrived in Asia towards the end of the Second World War. He was an operative of the OSS, the forerunners of the CIA. At wars end he decided to stay in Asia and made his home in Thailand. Like many other westerners before him, he quickly became totally absorbed in the in the local culture.
Over the years he amassed an immense collection of Thai art. In the 1950's to help store and display it he had six traditional 200 year old Thai teak long houses from different parts of the country disassembled and then reassembled into one massive building in Bangkok, which became his personal residence.
Thompson is perhaps best known for his efforts to introduce Thai silk to the world and revitalise what was then a failing and almost dormant local silk industry. Using his entrepreneurial skills, Thompson soon revitalised the ancient Thai silk industry bringing in some modern methods without jeopardizing the quality.
Thompson claimed to be nothing more than a simple businessman and art collector, however in 1967 he disappeared under mysterious circumstances in Malaysia. Rumours still circulate that he was still involved in his previous occupation as a spy.
After his death, his family turned over the house and it’s contents to the Thai Government. Today the house remains almost as it was during Thompson’s life.
Jim Thompson’s House is located at the end of Soi Kasemsan 2 a small side street off of Rama One Road. It’s a short walk from either the Siam or National Stadium BTS Skytrain Stations. The house is open everyday except Sundays between 9:00 am and 4:30 pm. Admission is 100 Baht ($2.40 US).
Admission to the grounds includes a short guided tour of the six buildings that comprise the main house. The first thing one learns about the house is all the buildings were assembled without any nails. This traditional Thai building technique made it easy for them to be quickly taken apart and reassembled as the need arose.
All the guides are multi lingual and provide a wealth of information on the various furniture, paintings and other artwork that fill the various rooms. Afterwards one is free to explore the house on their own, and/or wander the lush gardens and small fish ponds that almost seem to swallow the teak buildings and provide a sharp green contrast to the surrounding urban landscape.
The grounds include a small bar and restaurant that serves inexpensive and simple light traditional Thai dishes. It is the perfect spot to relax before or after touring the grounds.
Jim Thompson’s Thai Silk Company, has several stores in Bangkok, and of course one on the property. Here one can purchase silk shirts, scarves, ties and other items. Prices may be slightly higher than those in the markets of Patpong and Sukhumvit Road, but here one is assured of the quality. For those interested in other souvenirs, there are several small shops and stalls on Soi Kasemsan 2 just outside the entrance. Selection and prices here are better than the more commercial markets elsewhere.
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