Holland in a Bottle
Aug 28 '04 (Updated Sep 04 '04)
The Bottom Line This beer's all wet.
When most people think of Dutch beer, they think of Heineken. And why not? That company has had huge success in exporting its beer worldwide. Heineken brews more varieties of beer than the mildly hoppy pilsner for which they are most famous, of course, though most of the other styles they produce are hard to find outside of the Netherlands.
And yet, Heineken is far from the only Dutch brewery of note. The Dutch have a long history as a commercial power, and that tradition lives on today through companies the likes of Heineken and Philips. Still, when it comes to beer, you’re as likely to fine a tasty microbrew as a mediocre megabrew when you ply the streets of Amsterdam. Especially if you stop by the address of Funenkade 7 1018 AL, home of the T’Ij Brewery.
When I visit Amsterdam, Brouwerij T’Ij is the first stop on my list. For that reason, I have chosen this little gem of a brewery to represent the Netherlands in my series of reviews entitled Around the World in Eighty Brews. The place is one of a kind, only 20 years old (the blink of an eye in old world terms), yet packed with its own unique and timeless charm. Atop the pub sits a giant windmill, adding a true touch of Dutch flair.
According to beer writer Roger Protz, the brewery is named for a local river. Pronounced “ay”, the name is also close to the local term for an egg-hence the ostrich references on most of the beer labels. For now, I can’t stop by the brewery for one of their wonderful beers. But fortunately, I can travel there in a bottle. Tonight, I’m doing just that with a bottle of Natte from Brouwerij T’Ij.
“Natte” means “wet” in Dutch, and I certainly don’t mind wetting my whistle with this wonderfully complex brew. Styled after a Belgian dubbel, it is a credible example of the style with a touch of local color. I imagine it must be divine on tap at the brewery, but it’s a treat too in the bottle. Bottle conditioned with yeast, it should also keep well on its journey to your glass.
Natte pours to a deep chestnut color with a thick and creamy head formation and a nutty, sweet dark malty nose. The palate is creamy and spicy with hints of figs, raisin, toasted nuts, brown sugar, molasses, licorice, and candied fruits. There is a wonderfully sweet malt undertone here that carries on right into the finish. That finish is on the sweet side with just a touch of alcohol warmth.
This is definitely a pure delight, and a little bit of Holland in a bottle for your enjoyment.
EPINIONS CRITERIA:
Overall Rating: Five Stars
Beer Rating: A must-sensational
Weight: medium Body
Flavor: Sweet
Complexity: Very complex
Price: $3.49 per 11.2 ounce bottle
Other beers in this series:
America in a Bottle
Belgium in a bottle
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