LAST POST: MANILA AMERICAN CEMETERY AND MEMORIAL
Jan 18 '05
The Bottom Line One of those places we may not wish to visit in our busy schedules, but irregardless should still do so.
Tucked in a small enclave to the south east of the urban sprawl that is Metro Manila is one of the few large green spaces in this large metropolis. This is no ordinary park with it's strolling couples and playing children enjoying a brief respite from their hectic lives. It is a much more quiet place, a more solemn place.
This is the Manila American Cemetery and Memorial, the final resting place for over 17,000 fallen servicemen. The cemetery is located on the grounds of Fort Bonaficio the former US military Fort William McKinley and at 152 acres is the largest American military cemetery outside of the United States.
The actual number of fallen service personal interred here is 17, 206 laid to rest in eleven plots that extend in broad gentle circles from the memorial. Nearby 33,520 of their Filipino comrades in arms rest in the Libingan ng mga Bayani, the War Heros Cemetery.
Many of those laid to rest here were casualties of the savage fighting that took place in the Philippines between 1942 and 1945, the tenacious but doomed defence of Bataan and Corregidor in 1942 and the equally savage fighting to retake the islands three years later. Others died as a result of their wounds, illness, mistreatment or simple neglect as prisoners of war.
Not all who rest here fell in the Philippines. Many lost their lives in the other campaigns of the Pacific War, in New Guinea and other islands whose names are forever known to history. When the fighting ended their remains were interred here to rest beside their comrades.
The simple white markers stand in stark contrast to the immaculately tended grass and grounds. This is a peaceful place as it should be. Soldiers, sailors and airmen are buried not by regiment, or battle, or even by hometown. A cavalryman from Texas rests beside a sailor from Brooklyn New York. Custodians are in hand to assist visitors and next of kin to find a specific gravesite.
At the centre of all this is the memorial, a simple white limestone pillar with a small chapel inside ordained with mosaics and sculptures. Stretching away from it are two open sided hemicycles. These hemicycles contain 25 large tile maps detailing the various battles and campaigns of the Asia Pacific theatre of operations during the Second World War. The sweeping advances of both the Japanese and later Allied armies and navies are vividly displayed.
In stark contrast to these are massive limestone pillars on whose names are inscribed the 36, 282 service personal who paid the ultimate sacrifice and have no known graves. Many of the names inscribed here are sailors who's ships were sunk by the enemy or aircrew whose planes were lost also in the waters of the Pacific.
Others were soldiers, caught aboard a sinking transport ship enroute to a far flung battlefield and who died before they had a chance to experience battle. Some were even on ships departing those same island battles and perhaps thought themselves finally safe. Still more perished on land, in thick jungle, or desolate hills or even on the Bataan death march to the prisoner of war camps. Only God and perhaps their immediate comrades know their final resting place.
The first thing one notices about the names inscribed is the ages. Many of the young men here had barely begun their lives before they were cut short. Such is the tragedy of war.
In addition not all the names listed are Americans. Intermingled with them are the names of the Filipinos who fought alongside them and whose final resting place is also not know. Somehow this seems appropriate. They fought alongside each other and paid the ultimate sacrifice. It is only fitting and proper that they should rest for eternity together.
Wandering amongst the graves one notices the other visitors to this solemn place. Most are individuals or small groups, family or friends, children or grand children paying their respects to a parent or grandparent perhaps known only through fading photographs. Sometimes it may be even a spouse making a final or even first pilgrimage to pay their respects.
The guide who has helped them locate their lost family member remains a respectful distance as they approach the grave marker. A moment of quiet reflection, a short prayer, perhaps kneeling to touch the name inscribed there, and flowers or a small keepsake left behind.
It is not a long trip to make for those visiting Manila and will only take a few hours away from the other attractions that make up this delightful city. It is however an important trip if only to allow one to fully appreciate those delights and the price that was paid for them.
The Manila American Cemetery and Memorial is open every day of the year aside from December 25th and January 1st form 9:00 am to 5 pm. There is no admission cost. A staff member is always on duty at the visitor centre at the entrance to assist those in finding the gravesite of a loved one.
Further information:
American Battle Monuments Commission
Courthouse Plaza II, Suite 500
2300 Clarendon Boulevard
Arlington, VA 22201
Telephone (703) 696-6897
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