SPEED BUMP ON THE WAY TO PARADISE: ROATAN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, COXEN HOLE HONDURAS
Mar 22 '05 (Updated May 09 '05)
The Bottom Line The final destination is often worth the minor discomforts of getting there.
At first the phrase Roatan International Airport almost seems like an oxymoron. When I first visited Honduras in the late 1990's, I considered heading out to the Bay Islands from the mainland. At the time the only options were catching the regular Ferry from La Ceiba or one of the small puddle jumper turbo props that make the twenty minute flight across the Caribbean also from La Ceiba.
Things change though. Back then Roatan and the other Bay Islands were still “undiscovered” known only to the back packer crowd and a few scuba divers, both groups who were more than willing to take the time and effort to get to somewhere away from the crowds.
Now that Roatan has begun to develop its tourism, business that has all changed. The sleepy one building provincial airport is now an international one, with direct flights from Europe and North America. Well it’s international as far as the sign says anyway.
TACA one of the major airlines in Central America does offer regular service into Roatan from elsewhere in Honduras and other Central America countries. Continental Airlines has regularly scheduled service from Dallas Texas and there are plans for other US cities in the works. There are also at the time of writing two international charter flights a week, one from Toronto Canada, and the other from Milan Italy. These mainly bring in guests for one of the larger resort complexes on the island on air/hotel packages.
To accommodate this rapid growth the airport has done two things. First they made up a new sign. Secondly they lengthened the single east west runway to allow larger aircraft such as modern passenger jets to land here. The extension is actually kind of obvious and depending on which way the pilot approaches for a landing you’ll get a nice “bump” where the wheels touch down.
To be fair there are obviously more improvements than those two, although not as obvious to the arriving passenger.
Roatan Airport is still one small single storey building. There are no covered gangways for deplaning passengers. Trucks with stairs are wheeled out and the passengers wander across the runway into the entrance for the arrival’s wing. On the way out you reverse the process. If you’re travelling here during the rainy season, an umbrella or raincoat in your carry on luggage might be an idea.
There are the standard two immigration booths, with the universal rule of travel in effect that while each is capable of holding a pair of Immigration Officers, for a total of four, two will always be closed, ensuing two long lines instead of four fast-moving ones.
Past Immigration is the tiny luggage area with its single carousal. The room can barely accommodate the passengers from a medium sized passenger jet. Put the passengers from two in there at the same time and it becomes hard to exhale. All the luggage is off loaded by hand and the handlers must have a deal with the Immigration officers on working slowly to ensure that the maximum number of people becomes bottlenecked in this small room. I think both groups have it in for the single custom agent on duty.
At least there’s only one luggage carrousel as noted. Mind there’s no room for a second. That would only confuse some passengers I’m sure.
If I may digress for a second, It’s usually at this part of a trip that all passengers get to play a rousing game of what is becoming the most popular travel past time, “luggage bingo.”
Standing watching and waiting for our luggage to arrive, you can cheat and look out a window to see when the carts go to your plane, I noticed an interesting phenomenon. Several years ago one luggage manufacturer came up with “the design” for luggage. Basically black cases with the wheels on the bottom and a telescopic handle. This was initially used by flight attendants the world over and someone realizing that they travel a lot, and therefore this had to be good, right.
Once one manufacturer came out with, so did all the others. That old imitation is the sincerest form of flattery rule applying as much in the suitcase world as it does elsewhere. That and they’re taking all our market shares away, do something quick.
There are several sizes of this basic type, small medium, large and smuggle the spouse and save half the airfare. There’s even a carry on version, although why a carry on bag needs wheels and a handle that basically takes up half the space in the bag, is beyond me.
Naturally all of these bags are black, ok not all just say 95% of them no matter who makes them. Black is a good colour, of course it doesn’t show dirt and grime and besides it’s stylish. Style after all is one of the prime considerations in choosing luggage, well above tensile strength and carrying capacity.
This of course leads to Luggage Bingo, as passengers unable to spot their luggage because it looks like everyone else’s, paw at every bag as it rolls past to try and see the name tag.
Some smart person then came up with the idea of tying a yellow, pink or other bright coloured ribbon on their bags so that they’d stick out in a sea of black ones. Well that worked for about one flight. Then someone else noticed it was a great idea and they told two friends and so on and so on. Now every black bag going around and around on the mobius strip from hell has a flourescent ribbon tied to it.
Naturally my wife ensured that we become full playing members of luggage bingo when she brought home a set of matching black wheeled luggage. Fortunately I’ve found a way to win or at least cheat at this game spawned by Satan. I refuse to tie coloured ribbons on our luggage. Ours is easy to spot now.
Once you’ve succeeded in getting your luggage, or at least some that looks like yours, there is one final bottleneck to negotiate. There is a single customs barrier with an ancient X-ray machine that all luggage, carry ons and small children must be shoved through and recovered on the other side. As I can’t think of anything worth smuggling into Honduras, I’m sure that this is just another make work project. On the other side a bored official meticulously inspects the luggage tags on every piece of luggage with those on your boarding pass to make sure that you don’t accidentally wheel off with someone else speedos.
Past the customs barrier, you enter the tiny terminal proper. In the “arrival wing” there is a small snack bar with a couple of tables and a cigar shop complete with comfy, easy chairs and a humidor full of Cubans and Hondurans for sale, they also have cigars, why it’s in the arrival section rather than departures is probably due to space.
A couple of rental car agencies booths are also located here as is what looks to be a tourist information booth. In reality this appears to be nothing more than a place to book overpriced excursions and real estate tours.
The minute you exit through the glass doors, you’ll be assailed by hordes of porter and taxi drivers. It’s a toss up as to which group is more aggressive in their sales pitch or surly in their manner. There’s a also a taxi stand outside. Taxis to Coxen Hole the island’s capital and nearest town should cost about $2.00 US for the five minute drive. For those who prefer to shlep or wheel their bags across the street, the local bus into town costs about $1.00.
The last, or first if you’re arriving, thing at the terminal you’ll notice is the notices on the glass doors, are the signs prohibiting guns in the terminal building. Welcome to Central America.
The other “wing” of the terminal contains the departure section. Basically there is a main hall with the standard airline counters. The surly porters are also here too. Past them to the right as you enter is Immigration and security. Departure Tax is at the time of writing $30.00 US or the equivalent in Lempiras, cash only. This price though seems to fluctuate and may go up a couple of dollars.
The security barrier is the standard type one meets now. An x-ray machine for carry on and a walk through metal detector which invariably finds the change you forgot about in your pocket. Grinning guards with hand-held metal detectors are there as back up.
The departure lounge is small and cramped. This is due to the fact that a third of the area has been enclosed into a VIP room. In here one can enjoy leather seats, supposedly free drinks and wide screen TV. Cost is $10.00 US for those who have an aversion to waiting in those standard small plastic seats.
The balance of the departure lounge is divided into two rooms separated by a glass wall, one smoking and one non smoking. There is another snack bar here serving drinks and rally ancient hot dogs.
There are a couple of small duty free stores with a fair selection of those duty-free staples, liquor, cigarettes and perfume. Naturally there are also a few souvenirs for sale here at roughly twice the price one would pay in Coxen Hole or other spots on the island.
Boarding passes identify the gate as in all airports, however here it’s rather pointless as there is only one exit onto the tarmac, although it does have more than one set of numbers above it. Once again you’ll have to stroll across the tarmac to board your flight. There are usually orange traffic cones and/or ground staff to direct you so you don’t get on the wrong plane.
At least when departing you’ll be ready for that bump where they extended the runway and can brace yourself. Maybe you’ll even luck out and the pilot will be wheels up before he “hits” that spot.
While in Roatan I noticed a local magazine discussing the planned expansion of tourism on the island, including an increase in visitors and flights. Naturally this should entail improvement and expansions to the airport. To be honest there is not much room to expand on, and I really didn’t see any other suitable sites for another larger airport. Then again, with a bit of luck and planning one doesn’t spend all too much time at the airport any ways. A little discomfort is a small price to pay for some time in paradise.
Other articles on Honduras
Omoa
http://www.epinions.com/content_3637158020
Pia’s Place Omoa
http://www.epinions.com/content_110242926212
Flamingo Hotel, Omoa
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Copan Mayan Ruins
http://www.epinions.com/content_2715590788
Hotel California Copan
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Tunkel Bar & Restaurant Copan
http://www.epinions.com/content_2551947396
Roatan Bay Islands
http://www.epinions.com/content_176973254276
Roatan Dive & Yacht Club
http://www.epinions.com/content_174636699268
Fantasy Island Dive & Beach Resort
http://www.epinions.com/content_174649413252
Oak Ridge
http://www.epinions.com/content_4264206468
West End & West Bay
http://www.epinions.com/content_4305559684
Roatan Wildlife
http://www.epinions.com/content_4328628356
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