A Sophisticated Find Near Central Park
Written: Jun 13 '00
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Small, Comfortable and Good Food
Cons: A bit Pricey
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| gregbnyc's Full Review: Atlas |
Atlas is a rather small restaurant with a unique feel. If you sit near the front, you can peek across Central Park South and see some trees in Central Park. Further back in the restaurant the polished wood lends a sophisticated feeling to the place. Perhaps the most interesting table is all the way back, by the wine cellar, where you will find a kidney shaped table. Four people can sit at this table comfortably, tucked away in a fairly private alcove, although the angles of the table are slightly unusual.
The wine list is quite unusual. Selections from Austria and Germany are represented along with lesser know California and new world selections. The prices are typical for a nice New York restaurant. Several wines are served in 250ml and 500ml carafes, which is a nice touch. There is always somebody around that can help you make a selection. We started with a slightly sweet Spaetlese from Germany.
If you have read a few of my restaurant reviews, you will know that the food is by far the most important aspect of any dining experience. I do care about ambiance and service, but the food steals the show. Atlas has never disappointed me. The last time that I ate at Atlas, I stared with Cannelloni stuffed with Duck Sausage. The pasta was nice and firm while the sausage crumbled into tasty, highly seasoned, morsels. My portion was just enough to leave me wanting another bite. My dining partner had an appetizer that combined ceviche and sashimi of tuna and salmon. A wasabi-based sauce that was packed with flavor was drizzled over the sashimi. The ceviche was perfectly tender had a wonderful and rich lime flavor. As you can tell, I stole quite a few bites.
At first inspection I was not overly excited about the main course selection. I am never a big fan of menus that have one fish, one chicken, one beef and one pork dish to choose from. Last time I opted for the special of the day which was a Buffalo Steak in a Red Wine Reduction served over what was called Navajo Bread. The meat was particularly tender and the sauce was a touch sweet and quite rich. The Navajo Bread was fairly small and a little too dense to be true Navajo Bread, but it combined well with the meat. It was another winner.
On another occasion I ordered the Chicken Soup with Dumplings . While the dumplings in the soup were firm and tasty, the soup itself was not very interesting. However, I truly enjoyed a Duck with Crispy Skin served with a cherry sauce. The duck itself was moist and a bit chewy with the skin as promised, extra crispy. The tangy cherry sauce worked wonderfully with the duck, although it was not quite as successful with the Zinfandel that we were drinking.
Overall, I recommend Atlas to anybody that is in the area. Take a stroll through Central Park on your way to the restaurant.
Main courses were between $22 and $32.
Atlas is located at 40 Central Park South, not far from the Plaza Hotel. Their telephone number is (212) 759-9191.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
gregbnyc
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Reviews written: 139
Trusted by: 178 members
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