Boulevard, San Francisco....Le Petit Robuchon?
Written: Jun 06 '04 (Updated Jun 06 '04)
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Pros: The food is really very good and the service is outstandingly professional
Cons: Can be expensive, especially if you are not monitoring your wine consumption
The Bottom Line: A bistro with a solid culinary underfooting, Boulevard enjoys an unmatched location. Likely more formal in the evening.
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| tombarnes's Full Review: Boulevard |
Lunch with my niece is always a pleasant prospect, but even more so when the chosen venue happens to be Boulevard, near the Embarcadero in San Francisco.
The Exterior
The Auddifred Building, one of the few survivors of the 1906 earthquake and fire, looks like it might have been lifted out of Paris with a stop somewhere in 1870's Colorado along the way. Its jaunty Victorian profile enlivens an area much deadened with banal corporate towers. Boulevard occupies the first floor and the basement.
The Interior
Noted restaurant impresario Pat Kuleto has created a warm and inviting space, perfect for romantic evenings, but equally cheerful at lunch, when one has a stunning view of the Bay Bridge and the sunny waters surrounding it.
The interior is well thought out. The linens are crisp and the lighting is agreeable, but one never feels haughtiness or pretension in these rooms. It's as light and comfortable as as your favorite shoes, though probably a bit smarter . Art Nouveau is used as a gentle guide here, not as an overwhelming design statement, as is so often the case with Art Nouveau. The peacock mosaic floor in the bar is worth a look, if the place isn't too crowded.
The Menu
Chef Nancy Oakes is one of those rare culinary stars without formal training. Her informal training has been under the likes of Joel Robuchon, Girard Boyer and other great stars of the culinary firmament. The result is a cuisine that is refined, yet unpretentious. One could as easily be in France as in San Francisco at one of her tables. Don't look for those big white plates with little nouvelle dabs of this and that. The cooking here is earthy and bountiful. The menu changes daily to reflect what is fresh at the moment.
First Course
The choices were all tantalizing, but I settled upon the Laura Chenel Goat Cheese ($11.00) with acacia honey, pistachios, baby beets and organic greens. This was no ordinary glob of goat cheese with a few tired nuts and wilted greens thrown on top...not at all. Even the beets had character! The acacia honey was sweet, but not overtly so. All in all, a well balanced dish.
My niece had the Fresh Porcini Mushroom Crostini ($12.50) with buffalo mozzarella, prosciutto di San Daniele, arugula. Boring? Never! The aged balsamic vinegar really did make a difference, as the tartness of the prosciutto was the perfect foil for the earthy taste of the mushrooms...like biting into a wooded glade.
We might have chosen the Pan Seared Day Boat Scallops ($14.95). This one sounded interesting, with lobster "manicotti" , beurre blanc and a lobster sauce. Another dish which caught my eye was the Crispy Glazed Rock Shrimp and Monterrey Calamari ($13.50). The spicy orange sesame glaze, black and white sesame seeds and miso vinaigrette would surely have lifted this out of the ordinary.
Main Course
The lunch menu is a bit simpler than he dinner menu, but the quality is much the same. My niece tried the Pan Roasted Northern Halibut ($19.75). While the fish is hardly local, it is shipped in daily from Alaska. Halibut is hardly a fish to cause much excitement, but the snowy mound of white flesh within a crab cake crust was too much for me to leave untouched. My fork darted to her plate....Perfection! The fresh morels, baby artichokes and parsley beurre blanc were good too, but took a definite second place to the fish. Highly recommended.
My choice was the Wood Oven Roasted Kobe Bavette ($18.50). It might look like the most boring thing on the menu, but this is Kobe beef. Well, almost. Kobe by way of Jackson, Wyoming. The cattle are said to have Kobe parentage and are raised in similar fashion (think of those unlucky French geese being fattened up for foie gras...). Well, was it worth all the fuss and nonsense about Kobe beef? In a word, yes. This was one of the more flavorful bits of beef I've had recently. Served like a flank steak with button mushrooms, sauteed Savoy spinach and delicate onion rings, the steak was remarkably flavorful. It was only moderately tender, but this was not a great defect. The crust of bread beneath was crisp, but had been drenched in balsamic vinegar and oil, so its flavor faded away beneath the subtlety of the beef.
The Lamb Two Ways ($17.00) might have been appealing if I hadn't had lamb the day before. A pan roasted chop and tenderloin Milanese are paired with Yukon Gold potatoes and sauteed red chard. Maybe I'll try this one on my next trip to the City by the Bay.
Dessert
Bread pudding is not normally something which conjures any excitement for me. It's usually pedestrian and bland. Oakes' version isn't bland at all. Be sure to save room for the rich blend of brandy, burnt caramel and brioche. I had a much lighter lemon sorbet, but found it agreeable. The Tarte Tatin and everything else on the pastry cart shouted out at me to taste them all. Even the strawberry shortcake looked good.
Wine
The list here is extensive, but I was able to have wine by the glass. A rather ordinary Hess chardonnay was about $12.50 a glass. For something better, it was about $16.50 per glass. If you are willing to take the plunge for a bottle, they have some good ones, but don't expect to spend much under $75.00 for a decent bottle.
Service
The service here is exemplary. The staff are both quiet and deferential. There's no spouting off about the specials or obnoxious "up-selling." The servers are knowledgeable, without being showy. This was something of a surprise, as the restaurant has a reputation for aloof staff. Nothing could have been further from the case during my recent visit.
Cost
Considering the real estate they occupy, the prices here aren't bad at all. Lunch with three courses and two glasses of wine came to about $150.00 or so for two people. Dinner will set you back a bit more, but the prices are more than fair for the value received.
Dress Code
There isn't much of a formal dress code here, as San Francisco has largely eschewed dress codes lately. This is not to say that you should not dress well when dining here. A restaurant of this caliber deserves the respect accorded by wearing (at the least) casual business clothing. I'd still suggest a jacket and tie in the evening for men.
Reservations Etc.
You should not attempt to visit without making reservations beforehand. This is still a very popular place. To get there by cable car, just take the car to the Hyatt and walk from there.
Most major credit cards are accepted. Valet parking is available as well. They are open as follows:
Monday- Wednesday 11:30 AM- 10:00 PM
Thursday- Friday 11:30 AM- 10:30 PM
Saturday- Sunday 5:30 PM- 10:30 PM
Boulevard
One Mission Street (at Steuart)
San Francisco, CA 94105-1209
Tel. 415-543-6084
FAX 415-495-2936
www.boulevardrestaurant.com
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Reserve ahead--very popular
Best Suited For: Romantic Evening
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Epinions.com ID:
tombarnes
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 - Top 200 |
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Member: Thomas Barnes
Location: Fort Lauderdale & Washington, DC
Reviews written: 688
Trusted by: 444 members
About Me:
With Barbara in Miami, 2004
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