Butterfield 9, Washington, D.C....Memories of the Old Garfinckel's Tempered With Modern Cooking
Written: Mar 08 '03 (Updated Mar 08 '03)
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Pros: Attractive dining room, good service, interesting creations from this kitchen
Cons: Trendy appearance, expensive, could be slightly more adventurous
The Bottom Line: This attractive restaurant is in the old Garfinckel's department store in downtown Washington. Food and service are exemplary.
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| tombarnes's Full Review: Butterfield 9 |
When I heard that the old Julius Garfinckel & Co. building at 14th and F Streets in downtown Washington was being converted into offices with an elegant new restaurant on the first floor, my curiosity was piqued. I have many memories of shopping here with my parents as a child. it was a big day when I got my first seersucker suit with long pants here.. I think I must have been eight or so. We celebrated with lunch in their graceful dining room on the eighth floor.
The Building
That dining room is but a memory now, but thankfully, the old Garfinckel's building has made a comeback. With a spiffy entrance on 14th Street, yellow canopies and big plate glass windows for gazing in or out of, the restaurant makes a good first impression.
The Room
The interior is somewhat spare, but it works in a quiet way. There is nothing especially memorable here, but the atmosphere is quiet and subdued. More emphasis is placed upon the food than on the decor, however inviting it may be.
The chef, Martin Saylor, comes from the much vaunted New Heights in Woodley Park. Butterfield 9 has made a lot of the "best new restaurant" lists recently. On the whole, the place lives up to the promise, though the cooking is hardly far out or strange. That would not play well in Washington, still a conservative restaurant town, in spite of what some of us would like to imagine.
The Menu
First Course
I have enjoyed their New England Clam Chowder, however ordinary it may sound. Credit is due to any kitchen where a proper chowder is prepared, and this one is no exception. Many places in Washington, an essentially Southern city, just don't get the essence of a good clam chowder. This one ($7.00) is thick and creamy, with lots of clams and applewood smoked bacon added for flavor and interest. Despite the chewiness of the clams, the chowder is a great success. The potatoes are just right, neither overcooked, nor the hard little chunks of misery which ruin many a chowder. They even have the right kind of soda crackers to crumble on top, if you are so inclined.
They also offer a soup du jour, and these are usually successful. Be sure to inquire what might be on when you are going.
Salads
The Caesar Salad ($7.50)is good, if not out of the ordinary. They also have a Warm Duck Salad ($9.00)which I have found pleasant, if oversweet. The rare slices of duck come with orange slices, kiwi and shredded coconut (fresh, not the horrid kind that comes out of a can). The cranberry vinaigrette is an attempt to calm down a hypersweet dish, but it doesn't quite work.
The Salad of Field Greens ($7.00) comes with a Champagne vinaigrette. While it's not the most exciting salad in the world, the vinaigrette is well balanced.
Appetizers
One of my favorites here is the Golden and Red Beet Napoleon ($7.50). A colorful and well presented dish, the napoleon is filled with layers of goat cheese, the muiticolored beets, endive and almonds.
The Tuna Tartare ($10.50) is served in a fried wonton cup. The tiny chunks of tuna rest on even smaller chunks of mango and cilantro. The mango is a good foil for the saltiness of the tuna. A well balanced and carefully executed dish.
The House Made Potato Gnocchi ($7.00 or $13.50) come with mushrooms, Parmesan, and black truffle oil. In season, you may add black truffles to this for an additional $5.00. Gnocchi are best had in small quantities. The serving here is quite large, so you may want to opt for the smaller portion. The flavors are nicely balanced, but this falls short, if only for the essential dullness of the gnocchi itself. The kitchen should not be held responsible for the leaden outcome of their efforts on this one.
What would a Washington restaurant menu be without crab cakes? It's hard to find a place which does not offer them in some form or another. At Butterfield 9, they are plump and nearly faultless. The fennel and orange salad which comes along wiuth it is a nice foil for the crab. This one is $13.50.
Main Courses
At dinner, the offerings are slightly heavier and there is more meat on the menu. While the Black Angus Beef Filet Mignon is good, there is no need to spend $36.00 for another staek, however well prepared. The Roasted Texas Antelope Sirloin ($28.00) is a bit more adventurous. The vegetable orzo on the side is light, and the whole is not overwhelmed by the slightly sweet Wild Turkey bourbon sauce. Just know that it will be sweet.
Their Oven Roasted Pork Tenderloin ($22.00) is set off well with a light Dijon and peppercorn sauce. The Brussels sprouts are even tender, not the nasty little green lumps often lurking next to a roast. I like the buttermilk potato puree too.
For fish, they have a number of good offerings. The Sesame Crusted Tuna is a light alternative to flesh ($27.00). Served with an Asian cellophane noodle salad with basil and tomato aioli and wasabi crackers, this is a more healthful alternative to some of the heavier dishes.
I have also enjoyed the Seafood Bouilabaisse ($28.00). Packed with scallops, shrimp, mussels and topped with a crisp, fat crouton, the bouillabaisse is one of their most successful dishes. Highly recommended.
Tasting Menus
You may also want to consider their tasting menus, which can be a good value. At lunch, there is a "Late Call" lunch menu of three courses for $22.00. Served from 1:00 PM until 2:30, this one will not likely attract the office crowd, but it is a good deal. The three courses are a bit more straightforward, with the likes of plain seared salmon or vegetable orzo, but care is evident in these dishes as well.
At night, they offer a Pre-Theatre Tasting Menu for $35.00. Just three courses again, and simple ones at that, but a good deal nonetheless.
Wine List
They have a fairly good cellar here, with wines available by the glass for about $6.00 to $14.00. Most of their bottles are in the moderate range, with few over $60.00.
Service
The service here is deft, without being overdone. No pushy wine stewards or obnoxious louts proffering their names in the hoped exchange for tips. Just quiet and decent service without much pretension. This came as something of a surprise, as the crisp and clean lines of the place would almost suggest a hyped-up approach to service. I have been pleased here.
Reservations Etc.
There is no real dress code, but one would not feel especially comfortable here without a jacket or business clothing. This is downtown Washington, so the place tends to fill up with lawyers and lobbyists.
As you might expect, all major credit cards are accepted here.
The restaurant is open as follows:
Lunch:
Monday-Friday 11:30 AM-2:30 PM
Dinner:
Sunday-Thursday 5:30 PM-10:00 PM
Friday-Saturday 5:30 PM-11:00 PM
A light bar menu is also available on week nights.
Butterfield 9
600 Fourteenth Street, NW
Washington, D.C. 20005
Tel. 202-BU9-8810
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Do secure a reservation at lunch, dress the part
Best Suited For: Business
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Epinions.com ID:
tombarnes
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 - Top 200 |
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Member: Thomas Barnes
Location: Fort Lauderdale & Washington, DC
Reviews written: 688
Trusted by: 444 members
About Me:
With Barbara in Miami, 2004
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