Sometime Supah-Dupah Q
Written: Jul 17 '07 (Updated Jul 17 '07)
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Pros: Great BBQ when done right.
Cons: The tiring wait, and flat service, and costly.
The Bottom Line: Good full-service barbecue experience in Oakland.
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| megugrrrl's Full Review: Everett & Jones |
Everett & Jones is a well-loved barbecue restaurant here in Oakland. There are maybe five different Everett & Joneses, each with its own personality, and to the best of my knowledge, the Jack London Square location is the only full-service, full-bar location...and the most popular one.
Whimsical
As soon as you set foot inside the open dining area, you're assaulted by the decor - granny's soul kitchen on steroids. Everything's mismatched but in a matching, charming kind of way. There are brightly colored plastic tablecloths, beat up forgotten tea kettles and watering cans, old Thermoses holding sunflowers, giant patio umbrellas adorned with rope lights, and pitchers as flower vases. The kooky country chic is accentuated by the mismatched tables that are precariously close to each other. The walls (and menus) show off all the famous celebrities (Tyra Banks) and people of note (Maya Angelou or our mayor Ron Dellums) who have enjoyed bbq here at Everett & Jones. There's always some music playing and some game on TV. The vibe is definitely fun and friendly, casual, but a notch towards the upscale side. In the middle of all the excitement, behind a short counter, are the cooks and carvers, and the giant bbq oven.
Meats - Keepin' in Real
Even though this Everett & Jones is a little on the fancy side, the menu is still simple - like any respectable 'cue joint. There are only four basic meat options:
1. baby back ribs
2. brisket
3. chicken
4. links
all of which come slathered in either hot, medium, or mild sauce. (hot is HOT) If need be, there's a sticky bottle of Crystal's on each table.
And there are four basic side options:
1. greens
2. potato salad
3. beans
4. yams
and of course, the mandatory bread - wheat (Wonder of course) or a cornbread muffin.
A typical dinner is a plate of meat (or a 2-way or 3-way combo) plus two sides. I've seen plenty of people sharing the 3-way, and plenty of people finishing their own. Each dinner is around $13, more for 2 and 3-way plates. The meats are slowly barbecued to extreme tenderness - chicken, loaded with flavor, always slides off the bone, and ribs, when done right are delectable. If you're not into bones, the brisket usually requires no knife. Links? Home made! The rough-chopped slices are pre-sauced for maximum flavor.
The sauce is dark - sweety/tangy and packed with flavor - it could use a little more smokey, earthy flavor, but I actually like the sauce just the way it is, and particularly goes well with the chicken & ribs.
Gripes? There have been a few times when the brisket or ribs had just a little too many chewy, gristly bits. I know each plate can't be gristle-free and I do appreciate the bite of clumpy fat once in a blue moon, but when more than a quarter of the plate is like that, people can get cranky.
Another minor gripe I have, which is really more for all barbecue places really, is that the food is never served quite hot enough.
Sides
Just as important, sides can make or break an evening with barbecue. The winners at Everett & Jones are the greens and the candied yams. The collard/mustard greens are fresh-tasting and have no hint of that bitterness that some greens deliver. Tied for first place are the sweetly rich and decadent yams. They're a deep orange, sweetened perfectly, served nice and warm, and have the right consistency every single time. Unfortunately, the potato salad is mashed more than I like, so that you're getting a scoop of cold sour mashed potatoes - heavy on the mustard and sweet relish. Oh, and the beans are more ranch-style and have too much cumin in 'em - but of course I know lots of people who like their potato salad and beans that way.
Drinks & Dessert
Saucy Sistah Ale - locally brewed special for E&J is really nice - for me, not to dark & bitter like other microbrews. They also have a full bar for cocktails. for dessert, they have little pies - sweet potato is my personal favorite.
Service
Probably the biggest gripe I have with Everett & Jones is the service. Many times when people first walk in and are confused as to whether or not to sign in or just stand around, they're met with equally confused looks from the servers running back and forth. There never seems to be a host or manager to wrangle people.
Table service can also be something you may have to put up with rather than enjoy. At best, servers are generally pleasant but don't seem to be into their jobs, and at worst, you'll see your grouchy server just once to place your food order and never see her/him again. You'll spend half your meal flagging down bussers to help you.
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: Yes
Vegetarian Friendly: No
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Saucey Sistah Ale goes well with brisket.
Best Suited For: Friends
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Epinions.com ID:
megugrrrl
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 - Top 500 |
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Location: Oakland
Reviews written: 147
Trusted by: 317 members
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