Hostaria da Lino: Ristorante San Marino. Where a Falling Dollar Still Buys You Tasty Treats
Written: May 16 '08 (Updated May 16 '08)
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Pros: Location, socializing here with locals, speed of service, price, wine/grappa selection
Cons: Minimalistic presentation, distant if you're not in San Marino, road access
The Bottom Line: Da Lino offers authentic local cuisine with fast service at discount rates. Pretense related ambiance is minimal, but the local scenery more than makes up for that.
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| bettega's Full Review: Hostaria da Lino Ristorante |
When you feel like everything around you is beautiful, and when being surrounded by an excess of pleasurable sensory overload feels normal, the only place outside of bed I can imagine being would be Italy, unless of course you're having fun in bed in Italy. The little Republic of San Marino, enjoying thousands of years of rich cultural and culinary history, does extend its charms in just a similar fashion and you my reader are the fortunate to learn of one of its jewels.
This review is regarding the restaurant of the Hostaria da Lino, a full service hotel located in Borgo Maggiore in the Republic of San Marino. Any number of people, both locals and tourists, choose to enjoy this place as a place to stay, eat, party or all three. Suffice to say that while you will find better hotels than Da Lino, its location, price, accomodations and restaurant are all so attractive as to make it one of the most amazing deals in the entire Italian peninsula. The same can be said for their full service restaurant which serves many typical local dishes, and it is for this reason that I am happy to let consumers know what a wonderful bargain their nearly worthless dollars will buy them after 7 years of reckless devaluation on the part of our elected officials. Yes, you can still stay and eat in Italy or San Marino for a reasonable price, let me tell you how!
Introduction
The Hostaria da Lino is a three star hotel and restaurant located at the base of the mountain known as Monte Titano in the locality known as Borgo Maggiore. It is actually located in several different buildings all owned and operated by the same pair of brothers that bought the place around the turn of the millenium from its former owner, Mr. Lino himself. There is a bar and eatery in main lobby with some tables for serving sit down meals, there is another dining room open to the non vacancy public in the back. There is also a large dining hall on the second floor where those staying in the hotel can arrange to have meals served to them as part of a package deal. Across the street you will find two small, separate buildings with accomodations for extra rooms as well. You have to think of it in terms of being multiple units all operating under the same management to help satisfy your lodging, food and accomodation requirements.
Food and Menu
The menu is decidedly traditional with no frills presentation. You will get your typical north central Italian fare that focuses heavily on complex carbohydrates, fresh pasta, flat pastas known as "sfoglia", piada and cold cuts. There is also a pizza component here that I highly recommend. Most people think Pizza Hut when someone says pizza, but this is quite different. Their crust, as is usual for most parts of Italy where pizza may be served, will be so thin that you will practically be forced to eat it with a fork and knife. One whole pizza should be filling enough for someone with an average to above average apetite, but not too engorging which is good. It's not hard to work up an apetite walking up all the hills, but for that very reason you don't want to stuff your face all the time, much as the delicious food might tempt you.
The selections themselves are crafted with fresh, wholesome ingredients and made with love to order, but are served in a no frills kind of way. You get your food on a standard dish where it just sits. There is no decorative component, there is very little presentation to it. You're here to eat the excellent, if slightly simple local fare on a budget, so it's served to you in the same plain fashion your five star Chef Italian mom would. If you wanted something fancy you'd probably go to Tuscany or somewhere more expensive. Still, the gustatory notes that should be present will be there, and you will notice that the selections are not overly greasy or salted. It's wholesome indeed; just ask the locals that flock to eat here!
Service
The service is prompt and courteous, but don't expect any pizzazz. You'll notice that most of the clientele here know each other, and they know the staff. This is no suprise. Everyone who grew up together in this little country gets together here; many of the clients might have gone to school with the owners, so you will see a high level of familiarity abound. If you introduce yourself nicely, you may find the locals to be very welcoming. On the same token however, don't expect someliet treatment where you can mentally masturbate or be mentally masturbated about the intricacies of cork sniffing. They will hand you good food on time and make small talk if it's not too busy, but don't expect any hand holding or door opening.
Drinks and Bar
This is actually a great location to go and hang out for a few drinks even if it is not your intention to eat. Should you decide to pair your tasty food with some good, local alcohol, Ristorante da Lino can also oblige you quite nicely. They do have a wine cellar sporting a good selection of the average quality local wines but on request more special offerings can be found. The owners are grappa enthusiasts and do offer a nice selection of after dinner drinks of this type. Since there is a lot of local groove going on, they know a lot of the local vineyard owners and you can get to sample some of their various products if you ask them. Furthermore, in the main entrance of the hotel is the "Bar" itself. This is not to be confused with the American nomenclature of a bar which is a sit down drinking establishment. If you want it as such, sure, you can order plenty of booze, but the Italian idea of a "bar" is more of a cafe`. Since the attitude towards alcohol in Italy is so lax, sure, you can get it, but think of it more of a "starbucks with available grog". As with most Italian Bar, their caffe` and capuccio offerings are stellar, and even on a bad day when their machine isn't warm will easily blow the sissy Starbuck's Latte out of the milk, er, I mean water.
I must note that the food is tasty and well complimented by the booze. If you're staying within walking distance or at the hotel proper, there is no reason not to indulge while you are on vacation. On the other hand, the main road accessing San Marino is the most dangerous in all of Italy (the part that connects to the little independent Republic, of course!). Please moderate your alcohol consumption to one drink per hour if you plan on driving at all as the roads around here are very challenging to say the least! Of note, the local police is not strict at all with regards to sleeping in your car. Worst comes to worse, you can sleep off that buzz by reclining the seats of your car while parked in the piazza. Remember that kid on a moped you could run over is someone's son or daughter, so please keep tabs on how much alcohol you're going to consume and act responsibly!
Location and Getting Here
Hostaria da Lino is located at the upper edge of the highlands at the very foot of Monte Titano, the mountain for which the Republic of San Marino is so famous. It's almost at the top of the climb, and requires an extended, twisty drive no matter where you approach. Once there however, it's easy to miss as it's tucked in a side piazza, so tread slowly when you're at the foot of the mountain. On the way up, follow the signs for "San Marino Citta`" or "Centro Storico" ("Historical Center" in Italian). As you clear the final traffic circle under the mountain, bear to your right. You will see a bank on your right known as "Cassa di Risparmio di San Marino" (bank of San Marino). Look to the left, right across the "IP" gas station on your right, there should be a break between buildings. If you pass "la Sociale", the grocery store on your left, you've gone too far. This hard to find gem is right there, but the sign is not visible from the main drag. There will be a break in the Portico that seems to lead nowhere; just drive up into it and park on the piazza where a lot of parking is available. Should you not find any, feel free to explore the narrow little streets of this borough known as "Borgo Maggiore" and look to see where others park. When in San Marino, do as the Sammarinesi do; when behind the wheel, that basically means total anarchy. Be careful!
Conclusions
The restaurant at L'Hostaria da Lino is an outstanding value play. It not only offers quality food and quick service in a traditional, if a bit no frills way at rock bottom prices, but also allows the tourist to mingle with the locals. This is not an exceptional restaurant by any stretch of the imagination. Do not expect formal treatment; the best reason for coming here is the accesibility and quality to price ratio, as well as the change to meet some locals. It's not that easy to find, but very easy to enjoy and if you like the ambiance. It is also connected to their hotel which also offers spacious accomodations at steep discounts, but you don't have to stay the night to eat here. I would heartily recommend this place for a sit down meal or pizza to anyone be they passerby on their way further inland, day trippers or dedicated sightseers. The locals need no recommendation, as they already know about it and eat here in droves. That is about the best recommendation anyone can give.
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: Yes
Vegetarian Friendly: No
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Ask for their pasta, tagliatelle, piada or pizza selections.
Best Suited For: Friends
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bettega
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 in Cars & Motorsports |
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Reviews written: 89
Trusted by: 144 members
About Me:
On prolonged, possibly permanent hiatus. Ciao to all my Eps friends!
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