Portsmouth, Virginia.....The Salt-Encrusted Diamond of Hampton Roads....Proxam's Home Town Write-Off
Written: Nov 04 '03 (Updated Nov 04 '03)
|
Product Rating:
|
|
|
Pros: Downtown Portsmouth is alive with restaurants, shops and lots of interesting architecture.
Cons: Some parts of town are less salubrious
The Bottom Line: Portsmouth is one of the hidden jewels of Hampton Roads. Go to enjoy the history and quiet ambience of the place. A good base for touring the area.
|
|
|
| tombarnes's Full Review: Portsmouth, Virginia |
Portsmouth, Virginia has always been the little sister of the Hampton Roads area. Its charms were well hidden under layers of industrial grime and the ills which had long plagued this small city on the Elizabeth River.
Founded by William Crawford in 1752, Portsmouth is just across the river from Norfolk, but developed more slowly. This is good, as much of Portsmouth's architectural legacy has been preserved through arrested development. A few parts of the downtown, known as "Old Towne", were flattened in misguided attempts at urban renewal in the early 1970's. Among the notable losses was the old Crawford House Hotel, once host to Presidents Tyler, Monroe and Buchanan. Its slumber came late, only in the 1950's did the modernizing trends of strip malls and subdivisions begin to steal the vitality from High Street.
Today, one finds a well preserved, compact downtown area of about ten blocks square. "Old Towne", as it is known, has had something of a renaissance of late. Shops once boarded up and left with only dust bunnies for tenants have burst forth in a new and vibrant commercial life. Over thirty new businesses have opened within the last five years alone.
My father and brother both live here, and I have lived here as well. It's a very livable and likable place. Houses are still affordable and the area offers a change of pace from the frenzy of Washington. I always look forward to my visits here.
A Few Landmarks
The Old Norfolk County Court House
While the court has moved to a sad and dreary building on the waterfront, the handsome old court house (1846) remains open as the Courthouse Galleries, a museum of art. The red brick building is notable for its four columns of exposed brick. Surrounded by oak trees, the court house is still one of the focal points of High Street. The changing exhibits are sometimes fairly interesting, and they do have a small permanent collection.
Two smaller museums are worth mention. The Children's Museum, and the Virginia Sports Museum. Both are on High Street, though they are each pondering moves to larger quarters.
Trinity Church
Across the street is the quiet, unassuming Episcopal church, a buff colored beauty basking behind brick walls and a quiet garden of protective oaks. Built in 1761, the building has had a Victorian bell tower and a few modest embellishments added over the years, but its quiet character has been maintained. The musical program here is usually very good as well.
The Portsmouth Naval Hospital
Not the new building, which was recently completed, or the building from the early 1960's, an uninviting slab of beige brick now used for military offices, but the old hospital. This building, a grand Greek revival edifice from 1830, exudes power. Sadly, it has not been open to the public since the events of 9-1-1. The building is, however, well preserved and used mostly for offices.
The Norfolk Naval Shipyards
Perhaps the raison d'etre for Portsmouth, the shipyards are the heart of the economic engine which drives this area. Contrary to what you might think from the name, the shipyards are in Portsmouth. Originally called Gosport, the name was changed after the Civil War. The name Portsmouth Naval Shipyards was already in use in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, thus Norfolk's name was chosen instead. The USS Merrimack (CSS Virginia) was built here, as well as the first United States Battleship, the Texas (1889) and the first aircraft carrier, the Langley. While no new ships are being built here today, the shipyards remain busy doing constant repairs. It is the oldest operating shipyard in the United States.
The shipyards also serve commercial cruise ships. Rare is the day when one of these behemoths is not in port, having some part refurbished.
Architecture
Portsmouth has one of the largest collections of Victorian structures on the East Coast, though the general tone of the area is set by Federal houses and a few earlier buildings. Most are in very good repair, but the presence of siding on many buildings masks their true nature. Restoration has been on the upswing in recent years, so the area just keeps getting better. Tours of the houses are only available in the spring and at Christmas. The tours are a good way to see the houses, even if the guides are not always thorough.
Restaurants
I have reviewed my favorite restaurant in Portsmouth separately. The Cafe Europa is undoubtedly one of the best restaurants in the area and has held its own in the increasing tide of competition.
Other restaurants worth mention are Sassafras on High Street, Fusion 440 on Dinwiddie Street. Baron's Pub, also on High Street and possibly Brutti's on Court Street. The Baron's Pub is a plain bar of little pretension, but it is a notable local establishment with good service and really good, down to earth food. Don't miss it if you visit Portsmouth. Fusion 440 is a relative newcomer, but the food is remarkably good for the area and the service is exemplary. They have a good martini list too.
Hotels
The biggest bleak spot on High Street is about to change as well. The old Hotel Governor Dinwiddie, built as the Hotel Portsmouth in 1940, will finally re-open some time in the spring of 2004 as a restored "boutique" hotel. The vacant shop fronts facing High Street will also be filled, at last knitting together what have been two distinctly separate areas of redevelopment efforts.
The best hotel in town is the Renaissance Portsmouth, with the Holiday Inn next door loping in at a very distant second place. Both hotels are directly on the water, a pleasant amenity in a waterside city. The Elizabeth River Ferry runs every half hour to the Norfolk Waterside pier. Even if your business and sightseeing plans are in Norfolk, you may find it better to stay on the Portsmouth side of the river. The Tidewater Yacht and Marine Co. is on the waterfront, providing convenient berths for the yachting crowd the year round. A restaurant and bar are located here as well.
Overall, Portsmouth is a small city with a lot of positive attributes. Its charms have been hidden from public notice for too long now. Come down for a visit and enjoy the area.
For more information about Portsmouth, see the website listed below.
http://www.portsmouth.va.us
Also, call toll free at 800 PORTSVA (767-8782)
Entries so far: proxam - Livingston * Jetbluefan1 - Newport * AlanCrax - Tampa * popsrocks - Freeport * treeseed - Vergas * sundogg99 - Portland * hollynz - Gisborne NZ * Drdevience - Los Angeles * Ed_Grover - East Town (Milwaukee) * kamel622 - Wisconsin Rapids * Susie34668 - Maidstone * cr01 - Holmsfirth * msmorvay - Schaumburg * trust12345 - New York * atchesonate - Reno * gaelkm - Naperville * klueger - Altoona * jiahong - San Francisco * nchoward - Cedar Falls
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Friends
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
|
|
|
|
Epinions.com ID:
tombarnes
|
 - Top 200 |
|
Member: Thomas Barnes
Location: Fort Lauderdale & Washington, DC
Reviews written: 688
Trusted by: 444 members
About Me:
With Barbara in Miami, 2004
|
|
|
- Add to My Yahoo!: 
- Add to Google Homepage: 
© 1999-2009 Shopping.com, Inc.