RUTH'S CHRIS SF: Corn-Fed Yumptiousness & Velveeta Taters
Written: Apr 20 '02
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Pros: Fine prime meat, prepared the way I like it
Cons: Weakest appetizers this side of Costco quiches
The Bottom Line: Eat there.
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| Mr.Eyore's Full Review: Ruth's Chris Steak House |
[most of this review has already been posted as part of my review of restaurants for business people, called Hey Fat Man, Try One of These, which includes brief reviews of four different San Francisco steak houses. But I’ve eaten at Ruth’s a few times since I posted that review, and tried a few more of their offerings, so I thought it would be worth posting a full independent review of just this restaurant.]
the room
Like most fine steakhouses, Ruth's has the aura of a men's club from another era: dim lighting, wide, cushioned rump support, rich carpeting and wood-paneled walls. Only Ruth's is a big chain restaurant, so Ruth's version of the men's club has a distinctly mass produced appeal. It's all fine and good and comfortable, but there's nothing about it that stands out.
the appetizers
Mmmmmm. Guuumbo. Yummay. Lobster Biiiisque. How fancy, seared Ahi Tuna.
Skip ‘em all here. This restaurant couldn't get a starter right if owner Ruth Fertel's perma-blonde wig depended on it. The soups and gumbo and bisque are perpetually served luke-warm, and have all the complexity of something you'd get out of a Progresso can. Actually, Progresso makes a damn fine New England Clam Chowda, so I take that back.
The thing is, Ruth's doesn't even really seem to be trying on this score. The ingredient combinations are so ill-advised as to be laughable. For instance, the aforementioned ahi is served with "a spirited sauce with hints of ginger, mustard and beer." BEER! No.
The Lobster Bisque has some kind of beefy, sagey thing working that totally overwhelms what should be a delicate, though rich, bowl of creaminess, if that’s possible.
Worse, the Chopped Salad is just a mess any way you slice it. The lettuce has an odd cabbagey squeekiness to it, and the dressing, some kind of lemon meringue mayonnaise I think, is badly paired with the barely discernible bacon and cherry tomatoes.
On the other hand, they have a perfectly edible steakhouse salad, but you ought not to eat a steakhouse salad unless it's at one of those places where it comes with the meal. You just look like a goof ordering lightly dressed iceberg at a place featuring seared top-notch flesh. So skip the starter and have another Lagavulin instead. Be a man.
the flesh and stuff
A lot of people give short shrift to the meat at Ruth's Chris, and for the life of me I can't figure out why. Prime, aged beef is prime, aged beef wherever you go. Only, Ruth's sears their prime aged beef in 1800 degree ovens to lock in that corn-fed yumptiousness. I love that the steak comes sizzling hot and a little charred on the outside and deep pink, but still a little warm, on the inside.
Maybe it's the butter. Ruth's puts a slab of butter on top of the meat when it comes out of the oven, and by the time it gets to your table the pre-heated (to 500 degrees) plates are covered with cracklin' goodness. Some people call it grease, but they're idiots. It's butter, and butter makes everything better.
I always get either the filet mignon or the petit filet. The petit is $24.00. The full filet is around 27 bucks, which puts them both in the mid-range for prime beef restaurants. New York's around $30, which I can’t understand, because nothin’ ‘bout a New York Strip is as good as a nice slab of gummable filet..
The thing some people don't like about Ruth's is that everything is a la carte, which means you pay extra for the sides. But it's not all that much extra that it figures to come out as expensive as the most pricey of these restaurants. The mashed potatoes are the best of the pickins. There are enough for 3 people and they run about 6 bucks. They're creamy, fluffy and oozing with butter, Propa. There are five other potato dishes, including three kinds of french fries, potatoes au gratin and sauteed potatoes and onions. All the same price as the mashies.
The creamed spinach is also a fine, traditional accompaniment to your steak. It's done right, and it costs about 5 bucks.
Ruth's also offers white-trash sides, like broccoli with melted cheese, and other stuff with melted cheese, but the cheese is surely Velveeta, so if I see you ordering any of these things, I'm going to shoot spit-balls at you from across the room. If you're in from Wisconsin, I suppose it's alright for you to order, like, au gratin potatoes, which at least come in some kind of white cheese. But anything orange on your veggies, and I'm gonna get medieval.
desserts and wines
Ruth’s has about a half dozen desserts, but the only ones I remember are fresh berries and creme brulee with fresh berries. It’s a safe bet that they have some kind of chocolatey thing too, but like I said, I don’t remember for sure.
The creme brulee is done right: not too deep, not too shallow, not to crackley up top. And the mixture of strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and huge, juicy blackberries that come with it are a perfect accompaniment.
The last time I ate there, I tried the Smith Woodhouse Tawny Port ($8.50) with my creme brulee, and I can’t remember when I’ve been happier with the way a wine matched up with my dessert. The slight maple tones of the wine were an absolutely perfect compliment to the burnt caramel topping and vanilla creaminess of the creme brulee.
The restaurant also offers a respectable selection of other after-dinner drinks, including 5 additional ports, grappa, about 10 scotches and single barrel bourbons, and goofy liquors like zambuca and Bailey’s. Plus all manner of frou-frou coffee-alcohol drinks with whipped cream for visiting Iowans.
The regular wine list respectably extensive, but my one beef is that there are very few wines being offered by the glass. Those they do offer are perfectly good – I have thoroughly enjoyed both the Shiraz and the Cabernet I’ve had with my steaks, and the champagne by the glass selection is adequate – but for someone who knows and enjoys wine, I would think a wider variety would be preferred.
conclusion
I make no secret of the fact that I typically disapprove of chain restaurants. I’m particularly offended by the sort of franchise family theme places (like Outback) that manage to convince people they are serving quality and pander to the lowest possible aesthetic in terms of both decor and food. And there’s no doubt that, in a sense Ruth’s Chris toys with a theme (Cajun-Creole Steakhouse) and a gimmick (those craaaaazy 1800 degree ovens) that could easily be insignificant in terms of the quality of their food and service. But the truth is, I think Ruth’s gets a bad rap from a lot of people. They serve really great steaks, which makes up for the inedibility of their appetizers and some of their sides. The wait staff, while certainly not first rate, is professional, efficient and courteous. They don’t go overboard on the theme’s they’re milking. And they offer fine eats in a comfortable environment at a reasonable price, in line with what most higher end steak houses offer.
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: Yes
Vegetarian Friendly: No
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations I've rarely had a problem getting a last minute reservation, but for Friday and Saturday nights, you may want to call ahead if you plan to eat between 7:30 and 8:30
Best Suited For: Business
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Mr.Eyore
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I come for the pervasive sense of elitist self-importance and semi-witty expressions of faux camaraderie
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