Where would Godzilla eat?
Written: Jul 13 '06
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Pros: Delicious, healthful food, welcoming atmosphere, reasonable prices.
Cons: Limited seating, poor wine list.
The Bottom Line: If you're looking for a good, inexpensive meal in central Tucson and have had your fill of Sonoran cuisine, give Yoshimatsu--also a real local original--a try.
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| bkalafut's Full Review: Yoshimatsu Healthy Japanese Eatery |
I suppose there are stranger mid-life career changes than from fashion designer to restauranteur, but I can't think of any.
It's fortunate, however, that Yoshimi Tashima didn't let conventionality stop her. Formerly a Tokyo fashion designer, Tashima became a health nut after a bout of cancer. Mixing her design skills with her newly found zeal for health food resulted in Yoshimatsu, a relaxed, mixed-service (order at the counter but food is brought to the table) eatery combining the traditional with the kawaii and serving up authentic yet scrupulously healthy versions of Japanese homestyle and street food like donburi (rice bowls), miso soup, curries, okonomiyaki, noodles, and a wide assortment of bento (mixed dinner boxes).
The emphasis is on health and nutrition; nothing is greasy, the merits of tofu, seaweed, and mushrooms are played up on table cards, brown rice is offered, and (for what it's worth) Yoshimatsu only uses organically grown ingredients. yet the dishes are by all accounts traditional fare.
And they're all delicious. Japanese cuisine is notorious for its meager use of spices but the chef here really brings out the best in the ingredients regardless, making judicious use of shoyu, ginger, and Japanese condiments. Having eaten at Yoshimatsu over a dozen times, I've only been disappointed once, by a somewhat bland bowl of seafood udon ($8). Even that was good; it just lacked the little something extra that makes dishes like the yakitori donburi ($7) or the tofu and mushroom bento ($10) shine. White miso soup comes with nearly every order; pork gyoza--a dumpling similar to pierogi--also make a good starter. If the enormous menu overwhelms, bento boxes such as the yakitori bento (chicken kebab, $8) are the best choice, offering perfectly-done rice, green salad, seaweed salad, fried tofu, sweet potato, and edamame in addition to the main dish.
For the adventurous, Japanese specialties like natto (sticky fermented soybeans) are on the menu. I also got to see my girlfriend's face go through contortions when she accidentally ate the liver of the grilled whole Sanma fish which is the main component of one of Yoshimatsu's most popular bento, but no outright palate-shockers can be expected. Okonomiyaki, which is like a cross between egg foo young and a pancake, is probably the most exotic item on the menu, and it's worth trying.
In addition to fountain drinks and ice water (probably the best choice) an assortment of Japanese soft drinks are available, ranging from fairly bad canned drinks to calpico (which must be an acquired taste) and iced or hot matcha (green powdered tea). A few sakés are offered, ranging from the mediocre to the good, as well as Sapporo and Kirin beer. The wine selection is disappointingly limited to three highly overpriced Japanese grape wines, which is a shame since run-of-the-mill Riesling or Portuguese vinho verde would go so well with the food.
Yoshimatsu suffers from its success more than anything--the response has been overwhelmingly positive, especially after the readers of the Tucson Weekly voted it the area's best casual dining in its first year open. Expect lines and, as a sign on the door warns, difficulty finding seating at peak times, especially on weekends when the University is in session.
When you do sit down, though, you'll find Yoshimatsu relaxing and comfortable. The dining room is somewhat quiet and definitely amenable to conversation. Tashima combined the mellow Japanese wood aesthetic with the kawaii trend in a way that's somewhat amusing, not grating; toys such as dolls or sentai action figures and fashion articles are shadowboxed like artworks on dark walls accented with golden wood. A small gift-shop offers similar but more recent toys as well as snack food (think Pocky), canned beverages, and kitchenware.
However odd this formula is, it works, helped along undoubtably by the attention paid to fundamentals in the kitchen. If you're looking for a good, inexpensive meal in central Tucson and have had your fill of Sonoran cuisine, give Yoshimatsu--also a real local original--a try.
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: Yes
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Try a bento box, such as the yakitori bento, unagi bento, or tofu and mushroom bento, if you''re overwhelmed by the menu.
Best Suited For: Friends
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Epinions.com ID:
bkalafut
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 in Restaurants & Gourmet |
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Member: Bennett Kalafut
Location: Tucson, AZ, USA
Reviews written: 255
Trusted by: 42 members
About Me:
Stretching single molecules for fun and profit.
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