The Cotswolds, "God's high open land"
Written: Dec 06 '02 (Updated Jan 02 '04)
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Pros: Many small quaint towns in a relatively small area.
Cons: Cold in the winter.
The Bottom Line: We found this a wonderful area to just drive around and get lost in. Around every corner was something new to see, explore, and appreciate.
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| popsrocks's Full Review: The Cotswolds |
BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE
After driving through this area we understood the Old English words for "God's High open land", the Cotswolds. The land consists of hills and plateaus. These are known as wolds. The landscape is beautiful and you never know what your next view might be as you drive the narrow and winding roads of the area. You will pass many open grassy areas. I was struck by how green the grass was in November. We saw many sheep grazing in the fields as we drove between towns. Don't miss a turn. The roads are mighty narrow and winding so it's hard to just make a U-turn. I would just continue straight. This area is full of fun surprises around every corner.
TRAVELING BY AUTO
My wife and I were on a business trip in London. We had read about the Cotswolds. We rented a car and off we went. Now do remember my American friends, the folks in England decided to make their cars and drive them on the wrong side of the road. My good English friends insist it's the "correct" side of the road. Anyways, it does take a little time to get used to knowing how much car is on your left side and how little road is there. I do believe I may have trimmed some hedge row while driving the country side.
We took M4 out of London and then went to Bath. It was about an hour and a half drive.We found a fine little B&B outside of town and did some touring from there. The first couple of days we spent in Bath. It was then time to venture out and north into the Cotswolds.
WHAT NAMES!?
The names of the towns alone draw you to them or at least bring wonder as to why they are named such. There is Chipping Campden, Broadway, Moreton-in-Marsh, Stow-on-the-Wold, Bourton-on-the-Water, Cirencester, Old Sodbury, and Upper and Lower Slaughters to name a few. Most of these towns are within a fifteen or twenty minute ride from each other.
What makes the towns unique are that they are very simple and quaint but at the same time have grand churches. It seems the wool business made many of the people very wealthy centuries ago. They donated some of their money to churches that built structures that seem more grand than the area and town should have. Every town, it seems, has one of these churches.
One thing I suggest is to have a map, a place to stay, and plenty of time to explore. This is not an area where you are looking for anything particular. It is just a place to drive and stop where you please. And stop you will. Have your camera with plenty of extra film. The photo opts are endless.
From what I hear this area is quite heavily traveled with tourists in the summer. We were there at the end of November. It was quiet. It also meant that most of the towns had some kind of Christmas decorations up. This added to the charm especially at night.
BIBURY
One town we particularly loved was Bibury. This is the home of Arlington Row. It's a line of cottages that are side by side going up a hillside. They all have thatched roofs and are beautifully kept. Out with the camera. One of our favorite pictures ever is of my wife in a bright red coat standing in the foreground of a picture of these 15th century cottages. This area is protected by the National Trust. It's kind of like a mix of our National Parks and National Registry of Homes. They are protected and cared for and are to always remain the same. Get out of the car and walk from the river, through town, and then up through the cottages. This is a loop that brings you right back to the river. The river is also beautiful. It's small with a nice little bridge. You will find some fine little shops to look around and spend a pound or two.
BURFORD
Not far from there is Burford. This is a bit busier little town. This town is full of antique shops along the main drag. There are plenty of places to eat. That's the fun of this adventuring. Don't plan ahead.(except for lodging in the Summer and Spring). See what tickles your fancy and go with it. Pubs are all over the place along with shops and bakeries. Rest rooms were never a problem to find.
BOURTON-ON-THE-WATER
The nicest of all the towns at night was Bourton-on-the-Water. It is a small town that straddles a small river. There are a few small and very picturesque arched bridges made of stone. My wife purchased a water colour painting of one of these bridges. It now hangs in our home. This town is known as The Venice of the Cotswolds. I have been to Venice and the water is what they have in common. Their charms are very different but are both a must see. The parking here was a bit hard to find even in November. But what a lovely town it is. In the middle of the village green was a Christmas tree all decorated and small shops with lights on all the storefronts. My wife enjoyed shopping in the stores while I discovered book shops and a candy store with mighty fine chocolate fudge.
WALKS AND CHURCHES
There is a walk that is known to be one of the finest in all of England. It's a walking tour that encompasses the Upper and Lower Slaughters that are about a mile apart and then another two miles or so to Bourton-on-the-Water. We just didn't have the time to give this area all the relaxed time we should have. I noticed many people on bicycles also. This area would be perfect for that.
Don't forget to check out the churches in these towns. They are quite beautiful and full of interesting history. They generally have a caretaker inside ready to answer any questions. In fact we had one fellow who would have had us stay all afternoon. He just kept on talking to his captive audience of this American couple.
You can find some bus tours that go to the Cotswolds too. I suppose you may learn a lot more with a guided tour but I highly recommend renting a car and driving whenever and wherever you like.
Another hour or so north of this area is Stratford-upon-Avon. This is Shakespeare's birth town and the area is known as Shakespeare Country. Outside of London it is the most visited area in all of England. We didn't get there but it would have made for an interesting couple of days.
Get a car and a few days and enjoy "God's high open land." It truly is beautiful.
This was one of destinations listed in the book 1,000 Places To See Before You Die. To read about the book and see some of the other listings go to
1,000 Places to See Before You Die
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Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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