Belfast : absolutely splendid.
Written: Nov 30 '01 (Updated Dec 01 '01)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Plenty to see and do in an "undiscovered" Irish city
Cons: This may be a hopelessly biased review: I live here. (and LOVE it!)
The Bottom Line: Belfast has something for everybody, with many pleasant surprises, and some fascinating history.
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| saintdonagh's Full Review: Belfast |
Judging from the international headlines it's made, Belfast doesn't seem to have much to offer a tourist, or a family vacation. Its history of sectarian violence, paired with the almost perpetual chilly Irish rain, have certainly done nothing to boost tourism. Those who find their way here, however - perhaps on a day trip from Dublin, or on a search for ancestors - may well find in Belfast a nearly perfect holiday destination.
No, I'm not joking... and yes, I'm talking about THAT Belfast, the one you've seen on your evening news, with the burning buses and barbed wire. Fortunately, the peace talks during the past few years have done much to quiet the violence and remove the once-constant military presence on the streets, including the forbidding black watchtowers and armed soldiers. Today, most of Belfast is just like any other small city, with tree-lined streets of rowhouses, busy shops, and plenty to see and do.
...THE GOOD
If I gave into my first inclination to tell you EVERYTHING wonderful that Belfast has to offer, I'm afraid I'd keep you at the computer for hours, so I'll keep it as brief as I can, with only a glimpse at the history, attractions, shopping, events, and culture you will find within the city. These are tough decisions for me: can I possibly NOT tell you about the birthplace of CS Lewis, or the fabulous art and craftsmanship displayed at Conway Mill, or the Gothic-but-pink Saint Malachy's Church... or Seamen's Presbyterian Church, where the collection boxes look like lifeboats, the pulpit is a ship's prow, and the bell from the doomed HMS Hood (sunk by the Bismarck) is on proud display? Well, I've given you paragraph headings with the details, so you can skip to what you're looking for.
...THE BAD, & THE UGLY
Even with its wealth of attractions and its something-for-everyone appeal, I can't pretend that Belfast doesn't have some very real problems. However, when trouble does erupt, it does so at "flashpoints": the trouble spots where Catholic and Protestant neighbourhoods sit uneasily side-by-side, with a history of trouble, personal vendettas, and paramilitary involvement. Fortunately, these flashpoints aren't in the city centre, nor are they near tourist areas or even most hotels and bed & breakfasts. A visitor's best insurance against inadvertently witnessing a riot is very simple: stay informed. Read the Belfast Telegraph at www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk, or the Irish News at www.irishnews.com for a few days before you go, and you'll know what to expect. Frankly, Belfast headlines these days are more likely to focus on elections, education reform, and the dangers of joyriding.
On my final negative note, it must be said, that unless you have very good reason to be here on the 12th of July, try to avoid it. For a week on either side of the 12th, most Protestants are marching, most Catholics are driving over the border or lining up at the airport, and many shops and attractions are closed for the duration. Book your flight for a few weeks later, when the International Rose Festival hits town, or the West Belfast carnival begins: it will be worth the wait.
The best way to avoid unpleasant surprises and disappointment is, of course, to be prepared. Travel guides to Belfast aren't hard to find, and will explain a few things that will make visiting easier. One potential area of confusion, for instance, is the currency: while based on the British pound, banks in Northern Ireland all print their own banknotes. You can spend the money from any bank, including Scottish and English money, anywhere; in addition, several places along the border, and even in West Belfast, will accept the Irish punt - though they'll give you your change in pounds sterling. Reading up on odd bits like this will help kill an 8-hour transatlantic flight.
MORE REASONS TO VISIT, AND WHAT TO SEE WHEN YOU'RE HERE
One compelling advantage to Belfast is the cost of getting here: flights to London are often the very cheapest European fares from the US, and several domestic carriers offer connecting no-frills flights at unbelievable bargains - I've seen them go down to nine pounds sterling (that's about $14) during a particularly fierce price war. If you prefer to travel via Shannon Airport, Aer Lingus always offers excellent off-season fares, including two-for-one deals and winter prices under $400 roundtrip.
And - for those of you tired of spending your holidays lost in crowds of fellow tourists - believe me, Belfast doesn't have that problem... yet.
So what are you waiting for? Still not convinced you should spend your whole summer here? Well... if you could only spend one week in Belfast, the following are perhaps your best bet:
1. Belfast Castle and Cave Hill.
You saw a photograph of it on your way to this page. It's not really a castle, is it? It's really a mansion house in Scottish baronial style, built on the site of a succession of castles dating back to medieval times, and is little over a century old. But it's still quite impressive, the views over Belfast Lough are outstanding, and besides the richly appointed rooms inside, there is also a heritage centre to visit upstairs, and an excellent restaurant in the basement for lunch or dinner. The garden outside, with its fountain and many hidden cat mosaics and sculptures, is alone worth the visit, and it's all free. If you've brought your children, take them the short walk downhill to the Cave Hill Adventure Playground, and if you like Irish history's rebellious side, keep going up the hill instead, to see where the United Irishmen first met on the road to the 1798 Uprising. The whole park has many nature trails and scenic walks to explore, as well.
2. The Ulster Museum and Botanic Gardens.
The Ulster Museum manages to cover everything, from natural history and the Stone Age, to interactive industrial exhibits for children, to classic and modern art, to its award-winning exhibit on Early Ireland, where you can see ancient artefacts, watch av presentations, and "make-your-own" megaliths. The exhibits lead you slowly to the top of the museum, where you can have lunch in the cafe, overlooking the splendid Botanic Gardens below. If you're lucky - or prepared - you can catch one of the afternoon lectures or workshops here, many of which are created especially for children. A gift shop and tourist information desk are on your way out as you go to explore the gardens, and don't miss the Victorian Palm House - a unique and historic feature of the grounds, housing Belfast's tropical plant collection in a gracefully domed, enormous, cast-iron greenhouse. And again, it's all FREE.
3. Black Taxi Tours.
Sit back in one Belfast's famous big black (or maroon or blue or covered in advertising) taxis, and enjoy a personal tour of the city's recent history and more controversial features. Besides taking you to see such sights as peacewalls, the world-famous murals, the Falls and Shankill Roads, and the graves of the Hunger Strikers, they'll keep you entertained with personal stories and inside knowledge of the city. Many drivers are also happy to take over photo duties, so that everyone can get in the same photograph for a change. (Use these to convince friends back home you went for a danger filled "adventure holiday" in the War Zone.) For an economical alternative, bus tours are also available.
4. The City Centre.
City Hall has some astounding artwork and architecture inside, with free tours offered on a regular schedule. In the summer, the lawn outside will be packed with the city's teenagers and others out to see and be seen, among the many statues and memorials on the grounds. Among these is a pillar commemorating the US troops who served in Northern Ireland in World War II, as well as a memorial to the victims of Belfast's most famous "child", the great ship Titanic. Within walking distance of City Hall you'll find the Belfast Welcome Centre (a good first stop), and the impressive and glorious Saint Anne's Cathedral: pick up their booklet on the way in, to find out about the floor's black-and-white maze, the 48-star American flag, the many mosaics, and several other fascinating features inside. Also close by are the World War II Exhibit, the slightly crooked Albert Clock, the Celtic Tattoo Museum (couldn't leave that one out), the dazzlingly elaborate Crown Liquor Saloon, and over a dozen other interesting landmarks and places to visit, including the Europa Hotel. (If you've played Trivial Pursuit, you may remember a question referring to the building most often blown up: that's the Europa.) And, guess what? It's all free to see.
5. With all the money you've saved seeing all these free attractions, go shopping!
The City Centre features mainly "High Street" shops, including the upscale Debenham's, Next, and Marks & Spencer, but wandering a little farther afield yields an amazing range of shops and bargains. In the antique shops on Donegall Pass, I found a floor basket full of slightly imperfect but antique Ulster linen, some pieces less than a dollar; the crafts and celtic artwork in West Belfast's Conway Mill are one-of-a-kind and irresistable. Charity shops and thrift stores are everywhere - you could take home a pile of Aran sweaters for yourself for a few pounds sterling each.
6. Have a night out.
Belfast offers opera, theatre (in both English and Irish), orchestra, night clubs, fine restaurants, and pubs featuring traditional music, quizzes, and "craic". Try to catch an event at the stunning and award-winning Waterfront Hall, where a terrace restaurant overlooks the Lagan River and ensures a perfect beginning to your evening; during the show's intermission, walk the the halls to see the work of local artists. The next morning, treat yourself to a gut-busting but wonderful Ulster Fry: sausage, bacon, eggs, fried potato bread, fried soda bread, baked beans, grilled tomatoes and mushrooms, and whatever else the waitress decides to surprise you with. You can usually get this treat along with a cup of coffee or tea, for pocket change.
7. Explore the city's "Gaeltacht": West Belfast. Here, the street signs, and many shop names, are in both English and Irish, and you've plenty of chance to practice your language skills. Those interested in learning the Irish language can find classes here, theatre, a daily newspaper, and bookshops with any title they could wish for. This is also the place to go for great bargains on celtic-designed crafts and Irish souvenirs. Gaelic games - including the ancient sport of hurling, and Gaelic football - are played in Casement Park, and many of these matches make rugby look almost girly by comparison. In the middle of it all, on the Falls Road, be sure to visit Milltown Cemetery - a forest of Celtic High Crosses and touching memorials to generations of Belfast's Catholic citizens, and the City Cemetery, featuring many of Belfast's best known names, including the parents of CS Lewis, and those who created and built the Titanic.
Oops - the week's over. But there's more to see - the many Titanic heritage sites, or a day trip to the Giant's Causeway, or Saint Patrick's trail, just a short drive to the south, in County Down. Fans of CS Lewis could visit his childhood home and neighbourhood in East Belfast, and anyone who loves elaborate gardens, historic houses, or scenic parks and nature trails would be spoiled for choice, even within the city limits. Those with Scots-Irish ancestors to trace, could find a gold mine of information at the local churches, Registry Office, and Public Records Office. And I hate to think you'd leave without seeing the Stone-Age dolmen and earthworks known as the Giant's Ring, with the nearby natural beauty of Shaw's Bridge...
Hey, you'd better stay another week.
Come with friends, or come alone, or bring the whole family - this truly is a city with everything. And if "everything" includes a few smoking traces of a rather mad war, and a hideous past, well...I'm calling that an advantage too, for the holiday maker. Imagine your friends' faces when you tell them you're just back from -Belfast- and don't forget to get a few photos while you're here, of the increasingly rare tanks, the rusting barbed wire, and the graffiti'ed peacewalls, to show them where you've been. Take a family vacation next year, with all the office-gossip prestige of an adventure holiday.
Also visit www.tourism.belfastcity.gov.uk and www.gotobelfast.com.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Families
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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Epinions.com ID:
saintdonagh
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Location: Ireland
Reviews written: 20
Trusted by: 11 members
About Me:
Author of medieval Irish fiction; fortunate mother of two.
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