Krakow: Enchantment at a Bargain
Written: Aug 05 '00 (Updated Aug 05 '00)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Very old buildings, well restored, very friendly people
Cons: There aren't enough hours in a day
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| Havnfun's Full Review: Kraków |
Krakow is an enchanting city with beautiful sites, very friendly people, incredibly good food, and many charming legends. On the southern side of the old city there is a limestone hill rising above the River Vistula on which stands the beautiful ancient castle and cathedral of the Wawel (pronounced vavil). That hill has been built on since the 10th century, so you can see every style of architecture here (Gothic, Romanesque, baroque, Renaissance, and even an ATM). Prior to the 10th century, legend has it that a cave in the hill was home to an evil dragon. Every day that dragon would appear and carry off a terrified victim, man or beast. Many attempts were made to kill the dragon, but no weapons could pierce its scales. One day, the town's people consulted Krakus, a local wise man/magician who experimented with herbs and potions. He coated a sheep with a yellow, liquid paste and threw the sheep into the cave. This sulfur-coated sheep had given the dragon a terrible fire in his belly. The dragon ran down the hill to the Vistula and drank and drank and drank. The dragon swelled and swelled but still the fire within it didn't go out. Suddenly there was a thunderous roar and the dragon exploded. The people, impressed with Krakus' wisdom asked him to rule over them and the land prospered. A city grew up around that hill and is called Krakow, in honor of Krakus. Immersing yourself into the legends of Krakow magnifies the adventure you will find here. Untouched by battle wounds in WWII, it still retains its ancient charms very well.
Wawel
In 1038, Wawel Castle became the home of Polish kings. Now it is surrounded by medieval walls, towers, and battlements. Inside it is home to many interesting ancient objects such as the crown jewels, Flemish wall carpets (impressive and world renown), and a collection of many Turkish art pieces. The cathedral, built from 1320-1365, houses the tombs of many of Poland's ancient royalty. Detailed sculptures of the monarchs grace the tops of the tombs which gives you a glimpse of how they looked. Many people consider Sigismund Chapel (big gold dome), added in the early 16th century, to be the finest Renaissance chapel outside of Italy. Finding the Wawel is easy and the walk up the hill affords some nice views of the city.
Market Square
At the heart of the old city is a large market square with many shops and eateries. In the center of the square is Cloth Hall, a large market hall housing many vendors selling crafts and handiwork. You can find dragons, traditional clothing, and many attractive pieces of jewelry made out of amber. Poland is famous for its quantity of high-quality amber, and the craftsmen here are pretty creative. The variety of great pieces to choose from can be overwhelming, and there is something in every price range. The more fossilized insects you can clearly see in the amber the higher quality (and more expensive) the piece. Outside the hall, some vendors sell flowers, fruit, and kielbasa (sausage). A gentle breeze brings the scents of sweet-smelling flowers to your senses and the aroma from the open grills beckon you with their delectable dishes (kielbasa and goulash). Around the square are several old and quaint buildings. The old town tower (11th century), the Church of St. Adalbert (10th century), and the church of St. Mary of the Assumption add to the enchanting medieval atmosphere of the old city (ask about the legend of the trumpeter and gaze at the Gothic wood carvings at the altar).
Around The Old City
From the market square, the Royal Way (Florianska St.) leads to the ancient main city gate. At St. Florian's Gate you will find artists exhibiting their finest works and selling them for bargain prices. Along the way are many hotels, restaurants, and jazz clubs. One night we popped into a beer hall to taste the local brew. The place had long wooden tables and was lit only by candles placed on the tables. We fell into a conversation with some students sitting next to us (most students speak very good English) and exchanged stories about our homelands. These students took us to a few of their favorite places and introduced us to their friends. We laughed the whole night away. I strongly encourage you to talk with local people when traveling. There is no better way to experience a new place or a new culture. Jagiellonian University, one of the oldest universities in central Europe (1300s) is worth a visit. You may also enjoy the Florianska, a museum of the Polish painter Jan Matejko (painted historical scenes).
A Great Restaurant
Pod Aniolami is between the market square and the Wawel on Grodzka St. (I think). This place is definitely worth a visit for a flavor of traditional Polish food. You go downstairs into the cellar of an old building. The walls are what you would expect to find in a cellar (grey stucco) decorated with various antique objects sitting on dark wooden shelves. The tables are wooden and the place has an old, homey feel to it. The menu consists of traditional Polish dishes made in a contemporary way. Borscht, goulash (best goulash in my life), pierogi, meat (pork/game meat) with potato pancakes, bigos (a sauerkraut and meat casserole), etc. The waiter catered to our tourist curiosity and introduced us to many foods and drink. Bison Wodka is very popular with the locals, but it was too strange-tasting for my taste (something like musty, peppery, grass). A plum Wodka (very strong--180 proof I believe) which burned like fire (took 3 sips to down the shot) had a lingering after-flavor of pure plum nectar, but not sweet--outstanding! One was enough for that night, but I will try it again. Eventually we talked the waiter into giving us the chef's recipe for goulash. We asked for it written in Polish, but the chef wrote it in English as a courtesy. Needless to say, we went back for another visit our last night in Krakow. The prices were below (by about 30%) what you would expect to pay for this high quality food in the States.
A Note About Hospitality
The hospitality of the Polish people is an attraction in itself. They have a saying, "when a guest is in the home, God is in the home". It is truly important in their culture for them to treat guests with superb hospitality.
Around Krakow
Auswitz, the famous Nazi concentration camp, is just outside of Krakow. It is a short taxi drive from the old city. Taxi drivers know it well because many visitors come to Krakow just to visit Auswitz. We skipped Auswitz seeking happier venues for our vacation, but the taxi driver took us to some other interesting spots. He drove us to the factory Schindler (of Schindler's List)owned and showed us the old walled, Jewish ghetto. From there we drove into the surrounding countryside, discovering beautiful places, fields of poppies, stork nests (they bring luck), quaint villages, and empty castle ruins (empty as in we were the only ones there). A must-see are the salt mines in Wieliczka (you can also get there by train from Krakow's station). These are Poland's oldest working mines and have been in operation for over 1000 years. Inside the mine are miles of passageways and rooms. Three chapels (unique salt sculptures) are inside also. It's elaborate and a very unique thing to see.
Tricky
Here is a good trick to know. A great, cheap place to stay is the Royal Hotel. It is right next to the Wawel and our room had a great view of the castle. It was home for the communist police during the days of communism. The main entrance in front is for Western tourists and the prices, too, are for Western tourists. Go around back, ring the bell, and enter the back lobby. This is where you can rent the same room as you could from the front lobby for one third the price. This may be a 2.5 star hotel. I suspect Poland has many secret tricks like this--discover some of your own.
Cheap Tour
When we arrived (by train from Warsaw), a taxi driver offered his services to us. We hired him to take us to less-traveled destinations for $50/day. That is a personal tour guide, interpreter, and car--let's see Hertz beat that! We traveled the surrounding region absorbing the local color and romance for 2 days.
Now that Poland is emerging from communist rule and slowly becoming westernized, you can find an eclectic mix of new world luxury and Eastern European value. Krakow offers everything Western European cities offer but at a fraction of the cost and crowds. Language was a bit difficult at times. If you don't speak Polish, most younger people know English (ask young people for directions) and nearly everyone can speak German. Extensive history, beautiful art, a variety of architecture, and a lively night life promise something for everyone visiting Krakow.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
Havnfun
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Location: Austin, Texas
Reviews written: 13
Trusted by: 4 members
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