SEARCHING FOR BEERS AT THE GENERAL'S, MANUEL NORIEGA'S BEACH HOUSE COSTA BLANCA PANAMA
Written: Apr 04 '02 (Updated May 09 '05)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: An interesting little piece of history.
Cons: Boy does it need a maid.
The Bottom Line: One look at what's left of this place and it's obvious there was one hell of a party here.
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| JAMES23's Full Review: Panama |
General Manuel Noriega, military leader, dictator, paid operative of the Central Intelligence Agency, recreational pharmaceutical importer, and in my humble opinion a very poor host. Sure I realise that he is now, and at least for the next five years, a guest of the US Government, and I know we didn't call ahead to say we stopping by, but still I expected better.
It was the second day at our stay at the Royal Decameron Costa Blanca on Panama's Pacific Coast that we discovered guess whose house was just down the beach. A couple of other guests had told us about it and several staff members confirmed it's location and gave us directions to it.
Noriega had several properties scattered about the country and abroad including a luxury apartment in Paris. After he was overthrown in 1990 the Panamanian Government confiscated them and many have since been sold off. I'm sure though that a few still exist awaiting the good General's return as do the odd discrete bank account or two.
The property in question is near the small town of Farillion just beside the old USAF base at Rio Hacho about two hours drive from Panama City on the inter American Highway. This base incidentally was torn down after the US invasion in December 1989 aside from the runway. The new 600 room Decameron resort now sits where the old barracks once stood.
Just to the east of the resort is a small community of very nice, and one presumes very expensive beach houses. They, one also presumes, belong to the elite of Panamanian society and provide that much needed weekend respite from whatever it is they need a week end off from. All are beautifully maintained and landscaped and include what are the hallmarks of elite status in this society, expensive four wheel drive SUVs in the driveway, high walls and elaborate security systems.
Noriega's house stands apart from all the others still more than a decade after he last used it. Not only is it bigger than the rest, but hasn't changed much since Noriega's last house guests were here in December 1989. They incidentally were a battalion of US Army Rangers who parachuted onto the runway of the nearby Rio Hacho base after stealth bombers shot up most of the barracks and sent Noriega's soldiers running off into the night.
The place is a bombed out wreck. After the American's left, the locals looted the place. First to go it is rumoured was the gold inlaid spiral staircase in the living room. The hard wood skeleton is still there, but one can clearly see where the gold inlay was gouged out.
As for the rest of the place all that remains are barren wreaked rooms covered in broken tiles, glass, and graffiti. The grounds are overgrown with weeds and the pool is empty and filled with garbage. It is obvious that more than one beach party has happened here since December 1989.
The place is easy to find. Just make the turn off by the Decameron sign on the highway coming from Panama City. The sign is easy to see, just in case you miss the thousand foot runway and control tower still there. Follow the access road to the beach and ask. Coming along the beach from either Farillion or the Decameron it is also easy to spot. It's the only one in desperate need of a visit from Bob Villa.
The gates are gone and it's easy to gain access to the grounds and even the house itself. Technically it is trespassing but it's not as if the original owner is going to complain now is it. You can even climb the spiral staircase to the second floor. Just be careful, as I said there is a lot of loose glass and other debris lying underfoot.
The better half and I spent an amusing morning here wandering about and trying to imagine what it must have looked like when Noriega was still in power. I stepped behind the massive bar and decided to see if the Rangers had left anything behind. Nope no cold beer in the fridge, in fact no fridge. Fortunately I had one in my back pack so I could pose for the obligatory shot of me at the bar with a cold one and my Cohiba in the other hand.
The better half then decided to grab a couple of the broken tiles for souvenirs. You know something like the local equivalent of the Berlin Wall I guess. Judging by the weight of the back pack after she was finished I think we'll be redoing both the kitchen and bathroom in new tiles sometime soon.
I realise it's not the Panama Canal, but it is a part of recent history and if you're in the area it is worth taking a look at. Given the amount of massive development in the region I doubt it will remain abandoned and neglected for too much longer.
Incidentally this is my second visit to a dictator/drug lords beach house. In 1984 I had a chance to visit Pablo Escabor's place in northern Colombia, and no there was no cold beer left there either. I'm planning a trip to the Philippines for sometime in the next year. Hopefully Marco's old place will be more accommodating.
More Articles on Panama
The Panama Canal
http://www.epinions.com/content_61126446724
The Golden Altar and the Church of San Jose Panama City
http://www.epinions.com/content_2661195908
Old Panama City
http://www.epinions.com/content_2725224580
The Heron Palace Panama City
http://www.epinions.com/content_2624168068
Fort San Lorenzo Colon
http://www.epinions.com/content_2943328388
El Valle
http://www.epinions.com/content_2802622596
Royal Decameron Beach Resort Costa Blanca
http://www.epinions.com/content_64792727172
Banana Beach Bar Rio Hacho
http://www.epinions.com/content_2622857348
The US Legacy in Panama
http://www.epinions.com/content_2712903812
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Dec - Feb
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JAMES23
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Member: James Smith
Location: Toronto Ontario CANADA
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