What is it about Maui?
Written: Jul 15 '05 (Updated Jul 15 '05)
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Pros: So very much to do and see. Wonderful collection of beaches
Cons: Tends to be expensive. Some folks tend to find it over-developed.
The Bottom Line: Though some people may find Maui a bit overdeveloped, the fact is that's probably the most well-rounded of the Hawaiian Islands.
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| LordBalfor's Full Review: Maui |
Maui.
What is it about the place? The Hawaiian islands as a whole have legions of fans – and why not? They have lovely warm weather, gently swaying palm trees, beautiful aquamarine water – all the things that most people seem to want in a tropical vacation destination.
But Maui… Maui is different somehow.
People who go to Kauai and Oahu and the “big island” of Hawaii seem to like it there and indeed often return again and again – but usually mixing and matching the islands to provide a good balance of shopping, relaxation and adventure. They may go to Kauai for a week, followed by four days on Hawaii and three final days on Oahu. They may just split their time between Oahu and Kauai, taking in the former for the dining and excitement of the big city and the latter for the peace and quiet it affords. They may have their favorite island, but they tend to enjoy each of them more-or-less equally – though for very different reasons.
People that go to Maui though – or at least a sizable number of them – seem to JUST go to Maui. They return again and again, trip after trip, year after year. To begin with, they probably stay in the fancy resort areas of Ka’anapali or Wailea, but over time many of them gradually drift from the huge full-fledged resorts that dominate those areas to the lower-key (and lower priced) collection of condos that make up the lively beach town of Kihei. Here they settle into a comfortable pattern of returning each and every year, over and over again.
Why?
Why is this?
What is it about Maui that drives people to return so many times – far more so (I think) than any of the other Hawaiian Islands? These repeat Maui visitors are a fiercely protective lot. Make an unkind remark about Maui on any Hawaiian travel board and you are likely to feel like you questioned the very existence of God during a personal audience with the Pope. These people are True Believers. They LOVE Maui! Sure they may love the other Hawaiian Islands too, but they LOVE Maui. I know many people - my own sister included – who will ONLY go to Maui. Yeah, she’s been to Oahu – but only to change planes at the airport while heading to Maui. She’s been to Kauai and loved it (“it was beautiful” she says) – but it’s Maui she returns to over and over again.
So again, I ask the question “What is it about Maui?”
Some people complain it's overbuilt and in truth, the main tourist areas of West and South Maui are very developed and traffic can be horrid. It's also true that if you look at photos of the place, it certainly doesn’t appear to be the most beautiful of the Hawaiian Islands. Sure it looks pretty, but it lacks the dramatically jagged peaks that mark Oahu’s stunning Koolau range, and though the windswept coast along which the famed “Road to Hana” winds is indeed beautiful and rugged, it would seem almost sedate next to Kauai’s wild Napali Coast. Shopping and dining are good – but not nearly as diverse as you’d find on Oahu (which has of course the BIG city of Honolulu (10th largest in the USA)). Its mountains (at least Haleakala) are high – but not as lofty as either of the two big peaks that dominate the “big island’ of Hawaii. It has nice beaches – but so do most of the other Hawaiian Islands. It has palm trees and pineapple plantations – but so does Oahu. It has sugar cane fields and rainforests – but so does Kauai. It has volcanic cinder cones and black sand beaches – but so does the ‘big island” of Hawaii – and that island has flowing lava as well.
So what makes Maui so special.
What makes it have a mystique of its’ own – even among the other Hawaiian Islands (which are not exactly lacking in mystique themselves)?
“Maui” your neighbor tells you, “We went to Maui”. Somehow that seems to conjure up images of someplace special – more so than had he told you that they’d gone to Oahu or Kauai.
“Maui” - island of the rich and famous? Maybe that’s it. Certainly Maui conjures up images of fancy and expensive resorts. It’s pricey and movie stars go there – therefor it MUST be something special.
Yeah, yeah, that line of thinking will get you there the first time – but I don’t think it will keep bringing you back over and over again.
So I ask you, one last time – what makes Maui so special?
Well, we decided to go there and find out for ourselves.
Frankly, I have to say that I actually had relatively low expectations for Maui in spite of the fact that so many people rave about the place. Expectations were low in part because photos I've seen of the island were really not all that impressive compared to pictures of Kauai or even Oahu (let alone the gorgeous South Pacific locations we've been to). In addition, since I'm such a POOR swimmer, I really do prefer those South Pacific destinations (or even Kauai and Oahu) because they've got more of the relatively shallow, reef protected lagoons I'm so very fond of. These lagoons are of course the most distinguishing feature of the South Pacific islands we've been to, but Kauai and Oahu (which are both older than Maui and thus have more well-developed reefs) also have some of these features.
In any event, because the photos I'd seen of Maui were not really all that extraordinary (even shots taken by well-known photographers) and because of the lack of lagoons, I really was sort of lackluster towards Maui. I did want to go, because.... well it is a tropical location, so how bad could it be? Besides, all those Maui fans must be raving about something - aren't they?
Anyway, now I've been and I know what all the fuss is about.
First of all, let me admit that I STILL prefer Kauai over Maui as it just suits me more personally. I also still MUCH prefer the languid lagoons of the South Pacific to anywhere in Hawaii. This is not meant as a slight to Hawaii - which I LOVE, but rather a testament to the even greater beauty found in the Southern Hemisphere isles.
But Maui did impress me – far more so than I ever expected. For one thing, Maui is FAR more beautiful than it seems in the photos. Pictures rarely do places justice, but in this case the injustice is extreme. Maui is VERY beautiful indeed, though it's beauty is somehow a bit more subtle than the other islands I've been to. Photos of the famous “Road to Hana” for example look nice but don't really impress me. This may be in part because I live in the Pacific Northwest and wild, rugged coastlines covered in rainforest is kind of old hat for me. In real life however, the coast is truly stunning - even compared to the wonderful coast we have in my neck of the woods.
Secondly, the beaches are just gorgeous - and there are a LOT of them (many of them pretty empty) - definitely a highlight of the place. I would guess that Maui probably has as many good beaches as the rest of the Hawaiian Islands put together. Also, the state has taken the time/money to put in bathrooms etc at many of the beaches. That was a very nice surprise. Since I'm such a chicken about deep water I didn't find the snorkeling that good (that's why I prefer relatively shallow lagoon locations), but I still saw a fair amount of fish and the swimming/playing in the water are just suburb. For those of you more willing to venture out into a bit deeper water however, it seems the snorkeling is pretty darn nice.
Thirdly, like the other Hawaiian islands (and unlike the South Pacific locations) I've been to, Maui has wide variety of climates & environments, ranging from desert to rainforest. However, unlike Kauai and Oahu, Maui also has the "high country" of Haleakala. This adds an AMAZING amount of extra variety to the island - much more so than probably any island except perhaps the Big Island - and, a big surprise was just how pretty Maui Upcountry is. In fact, we actually preferred Upcountry to any other part of the island. The mixture of open pastureland and eucalyptus forest is incredibly pretty, and the lush green coolness made a pleasant change of pace from the hot, dry coastal regions where most of the tourist activities lay. Very, very nice indeed - but again, in kind of a low-key way.
Finally, with the possible exception of Oahu, Maui seems to have far more to do than any of the other islands I've been to. This is in part due to the many different climatic zones I've already mentioned, but also due to the fact that there are so many "man-made" attractions (sub-rides, helicoptor tours etc). Also, there are lots and lots and lots of dining options (you won't starve - except maybe in Hana – where the food choices are notoriously bad).
So, if you are planning a trip to Maui what are the things you need to consider?
Overview of the Island and Where to Stay:
Maui is essentially made up of two lobes, one to the northwest and another to the southeast. The northwest lobe (generally referred to as “West Maui”) is dominated by the West Maui Mountains, a collection of fairly steep peaks and valleys that average around 5,000 feet tall. Like the mountains that make up the center of Kauai, the interior of these mountains is essentially roadless and inaccessible unless you hike in on foot. As is typical in Hawaii, the north and east sides of these mountains are lush and green as the rain-carrying tradewinds come from these directions, dumping their load of moisture as they climb the mountainsides and the waters there tend to be rough and treacherous, the shores often rocky - though very scenic.
The south and west sides of this lobe are sunnier and dryer with sandier beaches and calmer water. Note that I said “dryer” not “arid” (more about this when I talk about South Maui). In any event, here can be found such legendary vacation havens as Ka’anapali and Kapalua – purpose-built holiday destinations complete with mega-resorts and world famous golf courses. This is where the rich and famous (and the not so rich and not so famous who simply save up all year long) stretch out on a magnificent collection of beaches and frolic in the warm tropical waters. Here too lies Lahaina, an 19th century whaling town turned major tourist destination. Lots to do and see there, with plenty of places to eat.
The southeast lobe (known as South Maui) is a bit different. It’s made up of one single enormous mountain (Haleakala – a bit over 10,000 feet tall) that’s for the most part gently sloped, with a patchwork of farms, ranches and the occasional village along it’s flanks. The view, looking at these slopes from the southern shore of the West Maui lobe (across Ma’alaea Bay – which separates the two lobes) reminded me of numerous cover-art paintings I’d seen of the sci-fi classic “Ringword” by Larry Niven. For those of you who have no idea what I’m talking about, Ringworld is an enormous construct built as a giant ring around a star, where the residents live on the inside (star-facing surface) of the ring. The construct spins to provide “gravity” and there is no horizon, as the ground slopes upwards instead of downwards. Thus on Ringworld you see the entire world curving off into the distance as it climbs higher and higher into the sky before vanishing into the haze of the atmosphere. Because the slope of Haleakala is so gradual, and the landscape along its slopes so pastoral, the overall impression when viewed from a distance (as from across the bay) is of a flat landscape that somehow slopes up and away from you. It’s almost as if you are in an airplane looking down at a stretch of flat land, rather than across at the sloping side of a mountain. It’s sort of a hard thing to describe, but if you ever see it, you’ll probably know what I mean.
Anyway, like the West Maui lobe, the north and east coasts of South Maui are lush and green, with wild, rough waters and a scarcity of swimable beaches - while the south (especially) and west coasts are considerably dryer – much more so in fact than the equivalent sides of the West Maui Mountains. Whereas the leeward sides of West Maui are still relatively green (having almost a park-like appearance), the equivalent sides of South Maui are downright arid, resulting in almost constant sunshine and reliably warm weather. This is because Haleakala is so much taller than the West Maui Mountains and thus does a far more complete job of squeezing the rain from the clouds as they struggle their way over the top. In fact, the southern coast in this area is extremely dry and barren, with a rugged coastline and virtually no swimable beaches. Not surprisingly it’s pretty much devoid of human habitation and the drive along the one real road in the area is somewhat of an adventure (more detail about this later).
The western coast of South Maui is much less rugged (though nearly as dry) and has a great collection of soft sandy beaches and relatively gentle water. Think Southern California with much warmer water and calmer beaches. The natural result is that this is the islands’ second major tourist area. Here lies Wailea, another haven for the well-to-do, with beautiful mega-resorts and a fine collection of beautiful golf courses. Like Ka’anapali and Kapalua in West Maui, Wailea is a “planned” resort area, with wide, winding, tree-lined boulevards and beautiful homes and condos intermixed with the mega-resorts. The affluence here is more than obvious. It practically oozes money, and of course EVERYTHING here is expensive. I could almost feel my wallet lightening up just driving down the street. If you are looking for a Beverly Hills type vacation spot in Hawaii, this is the place to go.
North of Wailea, and stretching all the way up to where the two lobes join, is Kihei the last of the major tourist destinations. Unlike the other resort areas mentioned, Kihei is unplanned and not nearly as affluent. It’s a beach town, in many ways like any beach town found throughout the US. There are condos and small strip-malls, restaurants and tiny art galleries, fast-food outlets and farmers markets. Many people who stay in the planned resort areas look down their noses at Kihei and in truth, the area is not nearly as beautiful. I have to tell you though, that we really liked Kihei. It is a cheerful place, generally clean and safe. The beaches are beautiful, though the stretch from Cove Park (near the “middle” of town) north to just south of (but not including) Sugar Beach is sometimes considered to be unsuitable for swimming because of agricultural runoff. Beaches south (or north) of this stretch are terrific and the collection of well maintained day-parks along the shore here ensure easy access to the water as well as the presence of ever-watchful lifeguards for those who may behave foolishly in the water. The population of the area is mixed as the accommodations naturally run much cheaper than in the major resorts. There are tall, well-muscled surfer boys and the lithe, lean, richly-tanned girls who follow them, there are leather-skinned resident retiree couples walking their dogs on the beach and middle-class families playing with their kids in the surf. All told, Kihei is a pretty decent area, and undeserved of the snobbish attitude often visited upon it. Prices are much more reasonable here than in the planned resort areas, the beaches (especially in South Kihei) are gorgeous, and if you really get a hankering to see how the other half lives, it’s a very short drive down to the ritzy resorts and beautiful beaches of Wailea. If you are looking to do Maui on a budget (not that anywhere on Maui is really cheap), Kihei is the place to go.
The final tourist area of Maui is Hana – though in truth it’s really a tourist area only during the day as few people actually choose to stay there. The famous Road to Hana is rightly considered one of the most scenic roads in America and runs from Kahului (the biggest town on the island – though not a major tourist hangout) along the north shore (though usually not along the water) out to the tiny hamlet of Hana at the extreme eastern tip of the island. Here the scenery is incredibly lush and green, the coastline largely rugged and untamed (though there are a couple of nice, though small, beaches). There are a few places to stay out here, but not many. Most are small bed-and-breakfast type places or rental cottages. The only “big place” is the Hotel Hana Maui, an extremely pricey and upscale resort that often attracts the rich and famous. If you do choose to stay anywhere out here, bring a good book as there are almost no choices for shopping, dining or evening entertainment. Hana is a tiny, quiet place, perfect for relaxation and meditation – and hiking during the day if you are so inclined – but little else. I’m serious. We’re talking one TINY little town here – blink and you’ll miss it.
What to Do
As I’ve already mentioned, Maui has tons of stuff to do. First off there are the beaches – mile after mile after mile of them – most of them absolutely beautiful. Except for the extreme southern end, all of the west side of South Maui is pretty much one long stretch of beach divided into sections by small rocky headlands. You could literally spend 3-4 weeks in South Maui alone, hitting a different beach each and every day. West Maui has fewer beaches, and they tend to be a bit smaller, but even there, there’s no shortage of them, and most of them are drop-dead gorgeous. Beautiful Ka’anapali Beach is often cited as the most beautiful in America, but many others are pretty darned nice too and choosing which beach to visit on a given day can be somewhat of challenge. In any event - snorkeling, swimming, scuba-diving, surfing (especially in the afternoons – when the winds tend to pick up or along the north shore beaches pretty much any time of day), you name it – if it has to do with being in the water, Maui can dish it up.
Besides playing in the water, probably the next most popular thing to do on the island is to just drive around and see the sights. Because of its diverse geography, Maui has plenty of them and I highly recommend you set aside a few days just to drive around and get a feel for the island. Here are two of the more popular drives:
A) First of all, take the drive up to the top of Haleakala. Do this early in the day before the clouds build up too much. On Maui, like anywhere else, really big mountains tend to make their own weather. It may be sunny along the sparking shores of Kihei – and even on the lush green shores of Hana on the opposite side, but chances will still be pretty good that Haleakala will develop a ring of clouds at around the 3000-foot mark by noon. If you expect to see most of the island from the summit, be there early (the earlier the better). Keep in mind a couple of things – 1) Figure on maybe 3 hours or so to get to the top from the tourist areas of either West Maui or South Maui - a bit more for West Maui, a bit less for South Maui. 2) Expect it to be chilly and windy on top so bring warmer clothes as the temps are usually 30 degrees (or more) cooler up there and the sharp cold winds often make it feel even colder. In any event, the drive up is pretty nice. The slope is not steep, but it is a fairly continuous climb to a high elevation. It affords many great views out over the surrounding countryside and even across to the other islands (weather permitting). Many folks do the “bike ride” thing here – booking through a tour outfit to be driven to the top (often for the sunrise) and supplied with a bike for the long ride back down. In any event, no matter how you get up here, the views down on the surrounding countryside are terrific – as are the views down inside the “crater” (not really a crater but rather a volcanic valley). If you drive down, remember to use LOW gear so you’ll not burn up your brakes halfway down.
B) Drive ALL the way around South Maui. The famous Road to Hana is rightly considered one of the most scenic drives in the USA. This road starts in Kahului – Maui’s largest town – and winds it’s way along the rugged north shore (though rarely along the shore itself) to the tiny hamlet of Hana. The thing to keep in mind here is that it’s not the destination itself that’s the lure, it’s the actual drive that’s so famous. The road is narrow and windy, with hundreds of curves and a series of short one-lane bridges over dozens of creeks and small rivers. Countless waterfalls dot the way and the landscape everywhere is lush green jungle. Truly this is a beautiful drive - one reminiscent of some of the more scenic drives in my part of the country (western Washington state). Though the distance out to Hana is less than 60 miles with an official drive time of 2.5 hours, plan on taking your time getting out there (we spent 5 hours or so and it was still too rushed in opinion). Going is slow due to all the curves (passengers may want to take Dramamine as carsickness is pretty common – especially if you take it faster) and there are many places to stop and take photos. If you have the time stop at the Garden of Eden botanical gardens – a beautiful place well worth the admission. In any event, even once you reach Hana itself, there is even more to see along this road. Wai’anapanapa (“Why Ah Napa Napa”) Park is worth a look, with a beautiful coastline and a couple of freshwater caves. Beyond the town lay the famous Seven Sacred Pools, properly known as Ohe’o Gulch. This is the real destination for most people who take this drive. It’s a series of waterfalls and pools near the sea. Most of the time these pools are perfect for swimming (as hundreds of visitors attest daily), but be aware that flash floods occur along here fairly regularly, so if you see the stream flow suddenly start to increase, get OUT of the water and head for higher ground. At this point on the road, most visitors turn around and head back the way they came. That’s a shame, for the road beyond is well worth a look and is (despite outdated information that the road is only suitable for 4x4 vehicles) perfectly drivable most of the time (check with the park rangers at the Seven Sacred Pools first to find out the latest road conditions before setting out). Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying this road is without its’ challenges. It’s even MORE narrow than the Road to Hana, with a couple of rather nerve-wracking spots where you are climbing a slope along a narrow one-lane road on a cliff-face with no idea what/who may be coming around the blind corner up ahead. Those spots made me more than a little nervous, but I still recommend the drive. Beyond Hana the road is perhaps even more scenic, and if you do the complete circle you’ll get a chance to see the remote southern coast of Maui – a LONELY place seldom visited – barren and windswept, but with an exotic beauty all its’ own. It certainly doesn’t look like most peoples’ vision of Hawaii, but it’s definitely worth a look. You CAN do the complete circle in one day but it’s a long drive (as is returning on the Road to Hana) so I personally recommend you spend the night (or a couple of nights if you have the time) in Hana to really get the feel for the area.
In any event, besides playing in the water and driving around the island, Maui has plenty to do. You can take a submarine ride on one of the “Atlantis” boats, take the road around West Maui (a drive many consider to be even more challenging than the drive around South Maui), visit the aquarium at Ma’alaea Bay, drive up the Iao Valley, Take a dinner cruise or snorkel boat trip to Molokini, party in Lahaina, take in one of the dozens of Lu’aus (Old Lahaina Lu’au is often cited as the best), or see a show. We saw 2 of these that I thought worthy of notice:
Ulalena : An "OK" show that would have been great had the rest of the show been as spectacular as the last 3 numbers. The old Asian woman performing near the end of the show really creeped me out and reminded me so much of the ungainly ghost from "The Ring" - or even more so - the spirit from "The Grudge". Pretty darned freaky that woman was!
Warren & Annabelles: SEE this show! SEE this show! SEE this show!!!!!!! Though it's a magic show (and an AMAZING one at that) the main thing to know about this show is that Warren (the magician) is Hilarious!!!!! Probably the funniest act I have EVER seen anywhere, anytime, under any conditions. My wife complained to me half-way through the show that her face was hurting from laughing so much - and I believe her. People return again and again (for good reason) - one guy there said it was his 3rd time at the show. You'll laugh till you cry and you'll be AMAZED at Warren's magic feats. You are all up close and he even lets you film (he's that good). A couple of times his tricks brought stunned silence from the crowd. He warns you gleefully that "This trick will keep you up at night" - and man is he right! SEE this show! SEE this show! SEE this show (book in advance because it fills up)! Trust me on this.
As you can hopefully tell by now, there’s just a ton of stuff to do on Maui with the result that there’s pretty much something for everyone. This is perhaps it's greatest strength as a vacation destination. For a relatively small island, it's really packed with things to do, and places to shop and eat. I certainly can't imagine anyone being bored there. Our 10-day trip there was not nearly long enough to even begin to get a taste for everything and I have to say that although I still prefer some other locations, I DO understand why so many people feel so very strongly that "Maui is the Best". It's not the most beautiful place I've been, but it is far more beautiful than it seems in photos and has a great collection of beaches, many different environments, and lots of options when it comes to entertainment and dining. All in all, it's just a really great package that's suitable for a very wide range of interests - probably the best in that regard of anyplace I've been. On Maui they say "Maui No Ka Oi" which means "Maui is the best". I don't think it's the best for me personally, but I CAN understand why sooooooooo many others feel that way. It's a pretty wonderful place and in truth, this has been one of the hardest reviews I’ve ever written – not because I couldn’t think of what to say, but because there is soooooooooooo much to say about the place that I couldn’t decide what to filter out. Hopefully you’ve found it worthwhile.
So see the world while you can, and as always, be safe.
Ken
PS: As usual, I’ve posted my photos on Webshots along with my pics from previous trips (Bora Bora, Aitutaki, Tahiti etc) where the total collection is working towards 3 million “hits”. If you are interested, here’s the link:
http://community.webshots.com/user/lordbalfor
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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LordBalfor
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Member: Ken Klein
Location: Seattle, Wa
Reviews written: 36
Trusted by: 110 members
About Me:
I am in love with the tropics (especially the South Pacific).
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